The Hindu Business Line : It rose against hunger

This quote is attributed to Asaf-ud-Dowlah, the fourth Nawab of Avadh, who had a fetish for buildings and monuments. He sponsored the construction of several monuments in Faizabad and later Lucknow, where he shifted his State capital after his coronation in 1775.

Another saying of his goes thus: “Jisko na de Maula, Usko de Asaf-ud-Dowlah” (Those who don’t get even from the saints, receive from Asaf-ud-Dowlah”). He had vowed that he would not allow a single subject to die of starvation during the crippling famine that struck the Avadh region in the 18th century.

To provide food for his starving subjects, the Nawab conceived the idea of building a magnificent structure, which would provide them work for long years. And thus the idea for the famous Bara Imambara in the City of nawabs was born. The famine continued for over a decade and this classic food-for-work project stretched beyond it… the work that began in 1784 took 14 years to complete.

The Imambara was designed by the architect Hafiz Kifayat Ullah Shahjahanabadi.

The devastating famine and the resultant food scarcity faced by the people of Avadh is thus described by the Gazetteer: “The scarcity of 1784-85 seems to correspond with that known as barasadi. There hasn’t been any serious crop failure in Avadh, but owing to the growing influx of starving people from the north western provinces, prices rose, the people suffered heavily.”

Built by day…

It is believed that while the poor people worked the whole day in building the structure, a section of the nobility that was also adversely affected by the famine was engaged in breaking it down by night. In this way it was ensured that work continued for long years. “Built near the Machi Bhawan Fort, in front of the Gomati river, the Imambara has served a variety of purposes. During the British regime, for some years (1857-87) the building was used as a fauji adda (military base); in modern times, until about 1970 it provided shelter to flood-affected people. The edifice has stood the test of time, and even survived attacks during the 1857 Mutiny, thanks to the use of lakhauri bricks plastered with lime and the absence of wood or any other metal in the construction.

A tourist icon

In post-Independent India, the Imambara has become a tourist hotspot. A.K. Tiwari, a tourist police official, says of the historic building, “Yeh Imambara apne aap me ek hi hai (This is one of its kind). So we have to ensure the monument is not damaged by anti-social elements or terrorists.”

Entrance to the complex is through the Roomi Darwaza, also known as the Turkish Gate. Made by workers from Rome — and hence the name Roomi — it leads into the courtyard. Yasa Rizvi, a resident of old Lucknow says, “Roomi Darwaza is the signature gate of Lucknow. ”

Architectural highlights

On the western side of the monument is the Asafi Masjid with beautifully sculptured domes and minarets. Thousands of people flock here to offer the Friday namaz.

The main hall of the Imambara has modern architects wonderstruck because the arched roof of the central vault is built without beams and girders, making it one of the world’s largest concrete shells without pillar support. The ceiling has a height of 15 metres. The massive hollow walls of the central hall, besides keeping it cool, also help lighten the load of the structure. The central hall contains the grave of Asaf-ud-Dowlah and his crown has been preserved beside it.

The Imambara is also famous for its bhool bhulaiya (labyrinth), which, it is said, was not built intentionally. It comprises a network of over 1,000 passages and 489 identical doorways, some of which open into the balconies of the central vault.

For Aejaz Ahmed, an enthusiastic tourist, this “is like a mind game involving a number of identical tracks which confuse everyone. It is almost impossible to find your way around without the help of a guide.” Over the years, many of the tracks have been sealed for fear of people getting lost in the maze.

The top of the monument provides a bird’s eye view of both the monument and the city.

The legacy continues

Imtiyaz Alam of Contact Tours and Travel Agency says the Imambara is mostly visited by people from Bengal and South India. Foreigners too find it fascinating and flock here in large numbers. Henry, a student from the UK, says, “What I like the most are the fish engraved on the main gate (Roomi Darwaza)!” The Imambara also has shops selling rare trinkets not available elsewhere in the city. Rashid, who sells articles made of camel bones, says he has been here since Independence, when the Imambara was opened to visitors. “Forty years ago, all these articles like combs, bookmarks, hair clips, scissors, small jewellery boxes and neckpieces were made of ivory; but after ivory was banned, they are being made from camel bones.”

Aslam Khan, who has been selling nawabi jootiyan for 22 years here, says children and youngsters are his main customers.

Manzoor Husain, a ticket checker at the monument for 30 years now, says: “Ek mazhabi aur tareequi imarat hone ke saath sath ye hamara rozgar bhi hai (apart from being a religious and historical building it also provides us employment). So the original purpose of the Nawab has been achieved.”

More Stories on : Tourism | Domestic Travel

Article E-Mail :: Comment :: Syndication :: Printer Friendly Page

Stories in this Section
Fitness Fusion

.in conceivable

Haute green platter

It rose against hunger

Restored pride

Space for a high achiever

Nine faces of the India story