The Hindu Business Line : It's a secret

In quiet repose: (Clockwise from top right) Metcalfe’s Folly nestles atop a grassy hillock; the Jamali Kamali mosque; the tomb of Sufi saint Jamali.

Maya Jayapal

It has been called Delhi’s best-kept secret, and with a name like Jamali Kamali, people wonder if it’s real. Not many know that this area in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park is a treasure house of tombs and mosques and step-wells. Nestled in the shadow of the Qutub Minar, which looms over it from the distance, the mosque of Jamali Kamali and other buildings present a morning of leisurely wandering and sightseeing. The entrance is so unobtrusive that we overshot it and had to reverse, much to the ire of oncoming traffic.

The park itself is full of trees and shrubs through which bright-eyed and bushy-tailed squirrels scampered and over which blue-green parakeets shot through with the speed of lightning, shrieking as they flew.

The mosque and the tomb of Jamali Kamali are easily the most distinguished and impressive monuments in this area which contain a slice of history. Jamali is the pen name of a renowned Sufi poet and mystic, Sheik Fazalullah, who lived through the reigns of Sikander and Ibrahim Lodi, Babar and Humayun, and who belonged to a Sunni merchant family.

There is an interesting story about how he became a hermit and mystic. He was waiting for his beloved during the late evening. Shadows of dusk were falling and he was getting impatient. Seeing a hooded shape approaching, he ran and clasped the figure only to find it was a holy man. Stories say that Fazalullah immediately became a disciple of the holy man. He wrote the Mathnavi and became known as Jalal Shah or the fiery saint. Later he performed miracles and was called Jamali, from Jamal meaning ‘glory’.

The mosque was completed in 1528 during Humayun’s time. The imposing edifice retains the original gate which opens into a stone-flagged area with huge trees in which birds nestle.

The prayer hall is immense, with five arches; the central arch is higher and profusely ornamented and flanked by fluted pilasters. The niches are decorated with Quranic inscriptions. Two staircases at the sides lead to a narrow parapet; from the left we could see the tomb of the saint beyond the curved walls. The mosque, according to scholars, represents a transition period in Islamic architecture.

The walled enclosure, within which the saint is supposed to have lived, holds his tomb. It was closed when we went — the flat-roofed chamber had some remnants of traditional blue tiles above the entrance. Looking through apertures, we could see two tombs, one of which is Jamali’s. The walls were decorated with coloured tiles and inscribed with verses composed by the poet.

However, the identity of the second grave remains unresolved. It is said to belong to Kamali, although it’s a mystery who Kamali is. Was he a disciple or the dervish who changed Jamali’s life? The mystery adds an uncertain charm.

Outside the tomb but within the enclosure are several other tombs. The Qutub is clearly visible from here.

Outside the mosque is an area littered with rubble belonging to several structures. We were told that it was Balban’s tomb. INTACH is restoring the tomb of this 12th century Slave king, who died of grief after his son died in battle, as well as other structures.

In front, but diagonally across, is a grassy hillock atop which is an unusual structure called Metcalfe’s Folly. Sir Thomas Metcalfe, who lived in Delhi for almost 40 years as the chief representative of the British East India Company, built this landlocked lighthouse with a chhatri-like dome. Apparently he had a light shining there at night. Near the domed, canopied structure, open on all sides, a group of men were noisily playing cards.

As we climbed up, we heard the thwack of cricket balls. A group of children were playing on the stony clearing below, attired in school uniform. All along the place were rock formations which lent a romantic air. Paths meandered to various monuments in states of neglect.

We were told that there were a couple of step-wells, also disused and covered up. I hoped that the surroundings would not become too manicured, that it would retain its wilderness air even after the monuments were restored.

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