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Aditi De

Vietnamese cuisine has yet to make a major impression on the global palate. But the Blue Ginger restaurant in Bangalore hopes to change that.

Blue Ginger isn't a brand that has set the Indian gastronomic scene on fire yet. But even a single meal convinced us that this first full-fledged Vietnamese restaurant in India, about a year old at Bangalore's gracious Taj West End, is truly a must-taste destination for every foodie.

Vietnamese cuisine, unlike its Chinese and Indian counterparts, has yet to make a major impression on the global palate. The Blue Ginger chain, with 15 quality-controlled restaurants in the US, Vietnam and now one in India, is all set to spearhead the breakthrough here. For the flavours of Vietnam make such a tongue-boggling spread that, to a first-timer, tasting is truly believing.

Blue Ginger fare yokes together an aromatic blend of flavours drawn from Vietnam's past as a French colony, neighbouring Laos, Cambodia and mainland China, and the subtle notes of the spice route. The result is fragrant and unforgettable. And low-calorie, light and tantalising, adding allure to the exhaustive menu, which includes plenty for vegetarians.

Set under silken lamps with nuanced lighting and giant Vietnamese vases in an oriental tiled pavilion supported by Victorian pillars, the restaurant is on an island surrounded by greenery. As three Vietnamese musicians perform live, guests are guided to their brightly-cushioned seats amidst water hyacinth furniture by smiling hostesses in silken gowns, the first signs of attentive service. Solid teak flooring, accentuated by floor tiles typical of South East Asia, accentuate the authentic ambience, as does the blue-and-white Minhlong tableware that depicts scenes from a royal victory over evil.

Since the Vietnamese often describe their country as "two great rice baskets hung on either side of a carrying pole," the cuisine emphasises fresh ingredients and flavours that cross east-west boundaries with ease. As a press release points out, "from the Chinese, they learnt the use of chopsticks, the wok and stir-fries; from Mongolia it has incorporated beef, and from the French, developed a love of bread, butter and coffee."

Over lunch, we try delicious fruit mocktails that blend sweetlime and other seasonal fruits, garnished delicately with an orchid and a slice of red guava! Imported shrimp and vegetarian wafers accompany them. Each has a distinctive flavour.

For starters, we try tangy Green Mango Salad, crunchy with red pepper and crushed peanuts. Next comes irresistible Crispy Calamari with Plum Sauce, or squid fried to golden perfection in a tempura batter that gently unmasks the fresh seafood. Rice Paper Rolls with Shrimp and Chicken follow, the delicate casing revealing the delectable minced filling, enhanced by dipping into individual bowls of peanut Hoisin sauce.

Between bites, we learn that at the Vietnamese table, each diner can add a range of sauces to their personal tastes, explaining why little bowls of fish (nouc cham), bean, spicy lemongrass, soya-lime or ginger-lime sauce appear between courses. And that their basic cooking media are soya, peanut or sesame oils. And that folks in Saigon often begin their day with a large mug of ice-studded beer! As the hours glide past, they tuck into meats or seafood that are barbecued, sautéed, stir-fried, or even curried, varied with fresh vegetables traditionally sourced from the fertile river deltas.

Executive chef Sandeep Kachroo, who spent months in Vietnam to perfect the menu, speaks of gluten and tofu that is often used to provide succulent fare to Indian vegetarians. That's besides platters full of cucumbers, bean threads and sliced hot pepper that round out each meal. Vietnamese food, he points out, uses sprigs of basil, coriander, mint and (incredibly) fresh cumin.

For the main course, we try the Stir-fried Greens with Garlic, its bok choy, broccoli, snow peas and haricot beans crisp yet tender to the taste. The grilled King Prawns with Lemongrass prove outstanding, each bite releasing the freshness of the lemongrass marinade that enhances the juicy sea food. Crisp on the outside, yielding within, it is very appetizing.

Indian cuisine meets its French counterpart as we savour Chicken Curry in a Clay Pot with Sweet Potato and Aubergine, its coconut-based gravy and tender components owing their richness to the spice route. To accompany it, there is a surprise — fresh French baguettes! Despite our initial reservations, it proves a perfect culinary match.

To round off the meal, we try Blue Ginger's superb fresh fruit ice-creams. The passion fruit one is imbued with tropical sunshine, its sweet-sour notes triggering a second serving. The original custard apple ice-cream, on the other hand, offers succulent pods with each melt-in-the-mouth spoonful.

The Blue Ginger experience, we learn, is one appreciated by globetrotters like former US President Bill Clinton, who enjoyed watching its wholesome fare being cooked to perfection in a glassed-in open kitchen. Perhaps he was bowled over by the simmering Steamboat of herb-rich stock, into which vegetable, meat or seafood are dipped and cooked to individual tastes.

This restaurant offers Vietnamese cuisine a chance to gain a valid Indian space for itself. For as a spokesman for its culinary wizards, Chef Loan and Chef Chuong, point out: `Blue Ginger sets the stage for our culture to meet a rather unexplored one.' Isn't that reason enough to try a plate with a difference, until the outdoor Blue Ginger bar opens weeks down the line?

(For reservations, call 080- 56605660)

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