The Hindu Business Line : A trip to Penang

Forty minutes by air from Kuala Lumpur and we were in another world, having stepped back half a century. If Kuala Lumpur is all about the `world's fastest, longest, highest ...' Penang is, or at least was, at the other end of the spectrum.

Lying off the north-western coast of Peninsular Malaysia, the `Pearl of the Orient' comprises the 285-sq-km island of Penang and a narrow strip of some 760 sq km on the mainland known as Seberang Perai (Province Wellesley) separated by a channel, three km wide at the closest point. Linking the two is the Penang Bridge and a 24-hour ferry service.

A true melting pot of cultures that merged here, Penang's 1.2 million people — a happy mix of Malaysia's major races — reflect traditional lifestyles as perhaps nowhere else in Malaysia. Helping isolate and preserve local culture and traditions are the `Straits' that hem the island in.

Penang, today, is a resort island in full bloom — an idyllic playground for sun and sea worshippers. From the newly refurnished airport located at the island's southern tip, we had made our way north to where the beach hotels lie. And then on to the island's north-eastern tip to Georgetown. Confronting us was dense vegetation with occasional low-slung houses that lay wedged between shrubbery and trees.

The state bears the marks of successive foreign influences — from the early Indian civilisation that took root in northern Malaya, to that of the Portuguese, Dutch and later the British who barged into this part of the world in search of spices, and stayed back to participate in the lucrative trade.

Modern Penang's history goes back to 1786 when Captain Francis Light persuaded the Sultan of Kedah to cede `Pulau Pinang' (Betel Nut Island) to the British East India Company. The island was originally named Prince of Wales Island and the settlement that formed was named Georgetown after King George III.

The seat of administration, the state's commercial hub and the centre of things, Georgetown is one smart town! Sprightly and naively welcoming, its seafront is inspirational, while inland one finds large parks surrounding old structure. East meets west, as one sees from the beautiful white Colonial style buildings that greet one at every corner.

There are several ways to see the town. Walk, ride a trishaw, or take a coach tour as we did. We passed the ENO Hotel that's been recently renovated. Then drove past the impressive City Hall, before ending up at Fort Cornwallis, built on the site of Light's historic landing in 1786. Everyone ends up there. Once there was a fort, but today one finds an open-air amphitheatre, a history gallery and a handicraft and souvenir centre. Some half-a-dozen cannons point menacingly out to sea.

You have to queue up for 10 minutes to have yourself photographed at the famous Dutch canon on wheels presented to the Sultan of Johor by the Dutch and which finally ended up in Penang after being looted by the Portuguese.

Housed in a colonial style manor house, Penang Museum and Art Gallery is worth stopping by at to learn about local history and heritage illustrated by old photos, maps, charts, paintings, Malay daggers (Keris), Chinese furniture, and embroidery. Amidst a century-old setting, the items trace the history of Penang through the ages. The Art Gallery on the first floor displays the works of local artists and hosts special exhibitions. Stare at the statue of Captain Francis Light in the garden.

Built in the 1880s and once the seat of local government, the stately City Hall is a fine example of British palladian architecture featuring magnificent Corinthian columns and huge windows. Seconds away another local landmark. Presented to Penang by local millionaire Cheah Chen Eok in 1897 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, the 60 feet high Clock Tower today looks down at the traffic that swirls around it.

Named after the Indian merchant, the `Kapitan Keling' (headman) Caudeer Mohudeen, Lapital Keling Mosque features as ocher yellow façade and dome-shaped minaret reflecting Moorish Islamic influence.

Built with convict labour in 1818, the stately Anglican St George's Church is among the city's oldest landmarks, featuring a memorial canopy dedicated to Captain Francis Light. Fascinating sculptures of Gods and Goddesses, and a priceless gold, diamonds and emeralds embellished stature of Lord Subramaniam are featured in Sri Mariamman Temple.

It isn't for nothing that they call Penang the `food capital of Malaysia'! Scattered around the island are eateries that range from modest snacks to classy establishments with porcelain and China. For Indian food, try `Passage Thru India' and `The Palace' that both sport a colourful décor and offer good, wholesome food.

Fact file

How to get there: Penang has daily flights from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bangkok, Nagoya and Chennai. The airport is half-an-hour's drive from the city centre, and taxis and buses are available. The opening of Penang Bridge linking it with Peninsular Malaysia's mainland has facilitated driving to the region. There is also a ferry service.

Where to stay: Accommodation options are vast and varied with some 5,000 hotel rooms. Tariffs range from 50-500 RM.

Where to eat: Eating out is easy, convenient, and exciting. Allow RM 50 for a meal for two at a standard eatery.

When to visit: Though a year-round destination, the high season is October through March.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Malaysia.

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