The Hindu Business Line : Say cheese

A typical Swiss countryside that brings to the tourist the most verdant of landscapes is what Inder Raj Ahluwalia experiences on a visit to Pays-d'Enhaut, the cheese capital of Switzerland, which has other attractions as well.

Can't say a day tour did full justice to the place, but it was good enough. It's nice being driven around. And by an expert at that. And freelancing guide Doris Ruprecht was definitely an expert on this part of Switzerland.

The Pays-d'Enhaut was a new territory for me. And it is very Swiss indeed. The region became a district of the canton of Vaud in 1803. During this period it was all farming and alpine cheese here, until the inauguration of the Montreaux-Oberland-Bemois (MOB) railway in 1904, which opened the way for tourist development. Ever since then, it's been busy days.

We had left Le Diableret in the morning and watched the sun hide behind the mountains as we headed out. High peaks had given way to low rolling mountains and meadows.

A short stop at the Palace Hotel in Gstaad, and we had driven smack into 1,000 metres high, authentic, essentially agricultural village of Rougemont.

With its environs' landscape dominated by the 7,220-ft high Videmanette with a unique Alpine panorama, Rougemont stays busy the year round. During the summer, one can enjoy following the mountain paths and visiting chalets to watch cheese made in the traditional way. And thanks to the construction of the Videmanette cable car, and excellent ski-runs, winter is very popular.

Welcoming us was Sonia Georges of the Rougemont Tourist Office, who made all the right kind of suggestions, namely, a brief walking tour, and a leisurely lunch. Following her through the main street with its impressive chalets, we found ourselves standing before the church, the local landmark.

Built by the Cluny monks, the church is a work of art, and together with the adjoining chateau erected in the site of the ancient priory, is a classified historical monument. The Roman Church was built in the classic Clunisien style: in the shape of a Latin cross.

Lunchtime saw us seated comfortably at a large table with benches, out on the terrace of a traditional restaurant, with a view of the houses around and just below, the rail tracks just a bit further on, and then a large meadow tapering off into the hills beyond.

"If you aren't too busy eating, you'll see the MOB pass by," Georges told me. But while trains are close to my heart, food is closer, I replied. Fair enough. And the food — actually a large Swiss pork sausage with garlic bread and salad — was excellent. And I did see the MOB pass by.

We drove away down the valley and into Chateau-d'Oex. Situated in an open valley 1,000 metres high, this `jewel of the Swiss Alps' is serene, tranquil and sporty, and features carved chalets bedecked with flowers, often signed, dated and annotated exactly like a painting. The most famous building is of the Tour d'Oex on the hill of La Motte, dating back to 1080 A.D., later altered to become a bell tower.

Chateau-d'Oex was almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1164 A.D., 1741 A.D., and 1800 A.D., resulting in the majority of houses in the village being built of stone. The Pont Turrian Bridge, inaugurated in 1883A.D., can still be found in its original place.

In the tourist office we met Daphne van Meel, who took us to a small garden just behind her office to show us the symbol of the village. A submersible model and a huge hot-air balloon moored to the ground. The region's exceptional microclimate creates ideal conditions for hot-air ballooning, a sport that attracts enthusiasts from far and wide. Flights are scheduled year-round and conducted by professional pilots.

The last week of January sees Chateau-d'Oex host the world's premier mountain hot-air event with some 80 participating balloons from 15 countries. Featured are paragliding demonstration flights, airship demonstration flights, special shaped balloons demonstration flights, animations, partying in the village streets, and hot air balloon flights. Entrance is CHF 7, a 45-minute balloon flight costs CHF 290 per person.

Well, so much for ballooning. The other great local attraction is cheese. A few short steps and we were at Le Chalet cafe restaurant, which as its name suggests, is a chalet, and a beautiful one at that, with interiors being all timber and solid bench-type old furniture. Cheese is the mainstay, their specialty being fondue.

Apart from the main lounge, there is also the barn, and the shop, and one can see cheese being made. Despite the strong wind, we sat outside eating slice after slice of cheeses.

Take a journey into a vast expanse of blue and white splendour. Alpine flora and fauna greet one in the valley, which is home to the last of the golden eagles. With over 300 km of trails, the region beckons hikers and walkers.

One can go down the slope at La Braye, mountain bike along scenic trails, and go rafting. Winter is skiing time. From family slopes to runs for surf and mono enthusiasts, from 1,000-3,000 metres, the Gstaad Super Ski Region offers 71 ski-lifts and 250 km of ski runs.

Traditions exist in their original form, like the age-old arts of paper-cutting and lace-making. Here one can meet one of the last craftsmen skilled at making wooden utensils or copper cauldrons used in cheese-making.

And then there's cheese-making itself, the dominant tradition, In the Alpine meadows, one can see how the milk is heated in enormous copper vat on a wood fire, which eventually becomes the famous Etivaz cheese.

Unfortunately, time was too short to see Rossiniere, the third village of the district. But each minute spent in the Pays-d'Enhaut had been worthwhile. And, to coin an old adage, `we had seen enough...'

Fact file

How to get there: The Pays-d'Enhaut region is about three hours' drive from Geneva which is well-connected with Zurich. Swiss Airways operates direct flights from Zurich to Delhi and Mumbai.

Where to stay: Hotels and guest-houses dot the area, with room tariffs ranging from Euro 35-50.

What to eat: There is a range of cuisine, but it's worth trying traditional food and local cheeses. A meal for two costs from Euro 20-30.

When to visit: All seasons are the right time to visit. Winters are cold and woollens are recommended.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Switzerland.

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