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Shubhra Gupta

The market for Swarovski's crystal jewellery in India has seen a remarkable growth in the past few years. And so has the market for chandeliers with Swarovski crystals.

I've spent the last week among crystal, and seen the light. The old saying `as clear as crystal' acquires a new dimension once I finish looking at the chandeliers and the jewellery, fashioned from Swarovski.

Most people, when they hear `crystal', think instantly of glass, and wonder why good quality crystal is so very much more expensive. The confusion is valid because both glass and crystal are similar in chemical composition, and share many of the same qualities: they have clarity, and they shine. But crystal owes its brilliance to its lead oxide content, 32 per cent, as opposed to 16 per cent or less in glass. And, like the diamond, the quality of a crystal depends upon the four Cs — colour, cut, clarity and caratage.

The founder of the world-famous crystal, Daniel Swarovski, discovered the secret of the purest lead crystal right at his doorstep, back in1895. His village in northern Bohemia had the sand with the perfect quartz for the creation of crystal. He borrowed expertise from Bohemia's thriving glass-making and glass-cutting industry and began experimenting with sand, red lead, potash and soda, and arrived at the combination which led to the legendary Swarovski crystal. That formula, like Coke's, remains a closely-guarded secret, and serves to differentiate between an ordinary crystal and the real McCoy.

The jewellery I see at the Swarovski counter at Shopper's Stop, New Delhi, has a lot of their latest summer collection, a melange of sparkling white and coloured crystal set in plated gold. The silver crystal gift items have been in the market for a while now, and have a much more visible profile. But, says Swarovski communications manager Pooja Ahluwalia, the company is now planning to sharpen focus on its jewellery, having seen a 30 per cent sales hike since its introduction in1999 of its `fashion' products — watches, tattoos and jewellery. Available in 22 outlets, including Chennai and Mumbai, across the country, the jewellery, like the other products, is all imported. The genuine product comes with a company watermark, a guarantee, and an offer of reasonable replacement/repair, even if you bought your piece out of the country.

The new additions in ear-rings, bracelets and necklaces, are youthful and trendy, with the accent on contemporary styles and coloured stones, when you set it against the more classic appeal of their traditional `Asian' line. The range starts from Rs 1,350 and goes upward till Rs15,000: you could combine a necklace and ear-rings to make up a set which would set you back Rs 4,000-5,000; some of their signature pieces can cost a maximum of Rs 20,000. I place my diamond ring next to a ring, set with small sharply-faceted crystals: only a jeweller with his trained eye would be able to tell the difference. The jewellery is light and elegant, and some of it seriously good-looking. At least a few of their pieces are something I, belonging to a generation which grew up on precious metal, and is only now discovering the pleasures of fashion jewellery, wouldn't mind sporting.

The chandelier range from Jaquar, a company known more for its bath fittings, uses STRASS crystals from Swarovski. A few of the chandeliers I see in their factory premises, on the outskirts of Delhi, are stunning, the dispersal of light, clear and pure. Like the jewellery, these are also imported, and they range from Rs 62,000 to Rs 4.5 lakh. A Jaquar manager tells me that while it is possible to get a chandelier from your local market for as little as Rs 1,000, their chandeliers cost much more because of the sheer quality, coupled with import duties. A STRASS crystal, according to D P Srivastava, Vice-President, Marketing, can last for a century without losing lustre. Each facet is machine-cut to ensure precision, resulting in brilliance and a clear spectrum of colours, and the finish ensures that the crystal is dust and water repellant, making your chandelier maintenance-free.

The process of pinning the crystal to the frame, 24-carat gold plated, is equally important for the life of the chandelier. The company claims that the pinning is sturdy and long-lasting; the product, specifically designed for Jaquar, comes with a warranty of seven years. For those who can't afford the high-priced chandeliers, there are crystal ceiling-lights in attractive colours from Rs 1,500 to Rs 23,000. Clean, if you need to, gently and with a damp cloth.

The author can be reached at Shubhrag@vsnl.com

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