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Inder Raj Ahluwalia

The Clare Valley has been described as `the most unblemished wine region in Australia'. It is also the perfect little place to retreat from the world for a few days, as Inder Raj Ahluwalia found out.

We had headed north out of Adelaide towards the Flinders Ranges, passed rolling pastoral meadows, and in 90 minutes were smack in a world ruled by nature.

Famous for its green farmlands and vineyards, the Clare Valley has been described as `the most unblemished wine region in Australia', and is home to such notable winemakers as Tim Adams, Jeffrey Grossett and Tim Knappstein. It is also the perfect little place to nest down in cosy secrecy. But that's by the way...

Each turn of the road offers different attractions. There are the historic copper mining town of Burra, the buildings of colonial Mintaro, Geralka Rural Farm, and Spring Gully Reserve to be discovered, and the stately Martindale Hall to be visited. And, of course, all those quality wines to be tasted.

We bedded down in a place called Thom Park Country House, a homestead built in the 1850s and recently restored to its original grandeur, and a truly magnificent home of traditional Australian style it turned out to be. Set in 60 acres of pastoral splendour, Thom Park boasts tranquil vistas of undulating farmland studded with towering gums, grazing cattle, gardens with hawthorn, elms, and roses, and a small dam that is home to native ducks and other bird life.

As hospitable as they come are David Hay and Michael Spears, who run the place with a passion that has not only won it several awards, but also many friends. Both are devoted to memorable dining, with food prepared utilising fresh, local produce, accompanied, of course, by the great Clare Valley wines.

In the heart of the valley is the tiny township of Sevenhill, the oldest winery in the Clare Valley. The historic Sevenhill Cellars and the Church of St Aloysius are notable landmarks. Here, one can have some wine and be blessed for one's effort.

Established in 1851 by the Society of Jesus, a religious order within the Catholic Church known as Jesuits, the past 50 years have seen the winery extend its products, making white, red, and fortified wines, several of which have won awards in National Wine Shows. Sacremanetal Wine is still a large proportion of Sevenhill Cellar's production.

Visitors are welcome to wander at leisure through underground cellars and the century-old buildings. Brother John May, the current Winemaker/Manager of operations, is as liberal with his wine knowledge as with his blessings.

Eager for still more blessings, we stopped by at St Aloysius Church, one of the few in Australia to have a crypt. The building has beautiful stained glass windows, a triple window with Mary and the Christ Child, the Austrian Eagle (acknowledging the first Austrian Jesuits), and the Piping Shrike, emblem of Southern Australia, along with the Madan symbol, and some grapes. Triangular windows on walls depict the Visitation.

Our excursion now took us further back in time. A living mirror of Australia's pastoral history, Bungaree Station is a real treat. Founded by the Hawker Brothers in 1841 as a sheep run, the establishment was spoken of as a showpiece, a virtual village, with every building symbolic of the social, economic and spiritual climate of the time. Writers and painters of the time lavished praise on the rugged feel, atmosphere created, and authentic look to things.

Taking guests in hand are Sal and George Hawker and their children. This is the Australia of yesterday, first hand. One sleeps in self-contained heritage cottages with wood fires, and barbecue facilities, or in the Shearerjs Quarters, has meals prepared in the Homestead kitchen, browses through the Station Store with its goods and chattels of a bygone era and home-made produce and Clare Valley wines, and admires horse-drawn and vintage motor vehicles. Within Bungaree's village-like precinct are a gym, a servery, swimming pool, conference rooms and the Woolshed, which holds receptions and dances. And there's St Michaels Church where one can get married.

As with all those closely linked with Bungaree's past, guests are invited to leave their mark by planting a tree.

Afternoon saw me settle my haunches for my favourite pastime, and it was a lunch I'll remember for a while. The air was crisp and fresh and sloping just below our table was a meadow with more flowers in bloom than I could ever have imagined.

Nestled among green, wooded hills is a historic 140-year-old stone settler's cottage where one can taste premium wines and enjoy freshly prepared food. Skillogalee Winery & Restaurant is a quality establishment. Dine al fresco on the garden when the weather is kind, or inside in front of log fires. Morning and afternoon teas are a highlight, and gourmet picnic baskets tailored to ones requirements are available by prior arrangement.

The food is superb, drawing on fresh, farm produce, and they don't mind if you ask for an extra helping of chicken or some general `spicing up' of the meal. And they certainly don't mind answering questions on their beloved wines.

I asked myself why places like the Clare Valley aren't aggressively advertised, and got my answer. They don't need it. The riches that unfold for visitors, speak for themselves.

I can vouch for it...

Fact file

How to get there: The Clare Valley is some 90 minutes' drive from Adelaide. One can drive, or take a conducted tour.

Where to stay: Ideally, one needs three days to tour the region and take in its sights and experiences. There are several bed and breakfast establishments that provide good, clean accommodation. Most wine estates feature good restaurants serving regional cuisine.

When to visit: Thanks to the fact that all attractions are nature-oriented, the whole year is the right time to visit.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Australia.

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