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Monday, May 13, 2002

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In a world of their own

Sarvesh
Priyanka Banerjee

Bastar, in Madhya Pradesh, with its old-world tribal charm, is a completely different experience, say Sarvesh and Priyanka Banerjee.


The tribes of Bastar are fond of dance and music.

It is a different experience altogether. An experience that takes you to a place that has an old-world tribal charm. Located in South-eastern Madhya Pradesh, Bastar is a place that conjures up images of perhaps the most exotic tribes of India. Bastar is predominantly a forest area, and home to the Marias and Murias, both extremely colourful tribes, who have preserved their ancient culture.

Apart from tribes such as Gond, Kanver, Kamar, Baiga, Halba, Korva, Pando, Birhi and Binjhwar, many other tribes are a part of the State's rich tribal culture of dance, music and cultural festivals. Bastar is the most underdeveloped district of Madhya Pradesh and about 70 per cent of it is under dense forest. Over 70 per cent of its population is tribal. This land is richly endowed with minerals and forest resources, but remains bereft of infrastructural facilities such as electricity. It is famous for its folk art, shrines and figurines. Bastar also has a history dating back several centuries, since it was ruled by many dynasties such as Nag, Gag and Chaturya.

During our trip to Bastar, we visited the Sakaal town, located in the hills of Bastar. Every week, a colourful bazaar is held here. This event is very special for the tribes. On our trip to Bastar, we observed that the tribes of Bastar were god-fearing and superstitious. They have immense faith in their village deities. Goddess Danteshwari is the reigning deity of the Marias. One of the most popular deities is `Aanga Devta'. Interestingly, the Aanga Devta helps them to trace out criminals and evil-minded people. A large three-day fair is organised during March, dedicated to Aanga Devta. Another deity `Bhimdev' is worshipped when there is no rain.

The tribes of Bastar are completely ignorant of the world outside and are happy with their own customs, beliefs and culture. The tribal women are very fond of jewellery, which is very exotic. Most of it is handmade — necklaces made of cane, grass, or beads. They use silver ornaments, small pieces of wood, glass, peacock feathers, copper for making jewellery and different kinds of wild flowers and leaves to decorate their long hair. In rural areas, women wear chains made of one-rupee coins.

Besides farming, their other occupation is handicraft. The tribal people make various handicraft items from bamboo, wood and various metals. Beautiful baskets, statues, mats, wall hangings, face masks are sold in fairs made by them. Bastar is also known for its terracotta work.

There are many places in Bastar worth seeing. The first place that we visited was the Devi Danteshwari Temple, which was in a bad state. But what caught our attention in the temple was a square stone on the floor, which had a lotus inscribed on it. Apart from this, we also found a Ganesh idol.

Another place of interest is the Vishnu temple, situated near the banks of the Indravati river, near Narayanpal village. It is famous for its beautiful architecture and is now under the care of the Central Government.

The Chitrakote Falls on the Indrawati at a height of 96 ft is very beautiful. It is a West-facing waterfall, located at 39 km from Jagdalpur. The Tirathgarh Falls is a picturesque one and is 100 ft in height.

Another place worth a visit is the Kutumsar Caves. The five chambers in the cave have several blind wells, all except one covered with a sheet of rock that, when struck, gives a hollow sound.

Dantewada is famous for its Danteshwari Temple. At Barsur, an old Shiva temple has 12 pillars. In addition, there is a Ganesha Temple and Mama Bhanja ka Mandir as well.

The tribes of Bastar are very fond of music and dance. The dance and music of people is extremely diverse. Bastar often resounds and reverberates with the beats of the drum. In small villages, every year, on the occasion of `basant', people dance and sing to the beats of the `nagarey'. Bastar is a cache of archaeological significance. The archaeological museum of Bastar houses various armaments and articles used by kings of the Stone-Age era.

The cuisine of this region is varied and different. Delicacies using mushrooms, insects and small animals form part of the tribal the palate. In addition, Marias are addicted to local liquor and they are fond of fish as well. Pork is a major item in their diet and almost every major ceremony commences with the sacrifice of a pig.

Picture by Sarvesh

Fact file

How to get there: Raipur is the most convenient place from where one can explore Bastar. It is linked with Delhi and Nagpur through air as well as rail. Bus services are available from Raipur to all places of tourist interest in the circuit.

Where to stay: Accommodation is available at Raipur, Bilaspur and Jagdalpur in private hotels and lodges. Accommodation is also available at Government circuit-houses.

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