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Lalitha Sridhar

An unlikely tourist destination, Vellore boasts of a well-preserved fort and temple. Lalitha Sridhar uncovers the secret treasures of this charming town.

The Jalakanteshwarar Temple at Vellore

Vellore is famous all right. If you can call it that. For years, it used to be called the place that had a raja illada kottai (fort with no king), daivam illada kovil (temple with no deity), thanni illada aaru (river with no water), maram illada malai (hills with no trees) and azhagu illada penngal (women with no beauty).

The distinguished lady who told me this was smiling a broad, and definitely, beautiful smile. That affectionate confidence also sums up the spirit of the city.

For those who have the time to look beyond the non-agrarian economy, the dried bed of the Palar river, the hustle and bustle so typical of India itself, there is a gem here waiting to be rediscovered.

A gem so prominent, that the city seems to have grown around it, reflecting its muted glow.

Granite burnished with age towers behind a moat shimmering with water. Immaculate lawns, flaming flowers and shady trees frame the picture. And a temple tower looms welcomingly beyond.

The ancient Vellore Fort and its Jalakanteswarar Temple seem to transcend time. The visitor has to remind himself that something so alive and so new is actually so old. The view from Vellore is past perfect.

Built during the Vijayanagara Empire around the 16th century, the Vellore Fort is now maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. That something over 400 years old is kept in such excellent condition, notwithstanding our abysmal track record with our many heritage monuments, is something to wonder at. The Fort is known for its grand ramparts, its wide moat and its robust masonry.

Begin by visiting the Jalakanteswarar Temple. The lingam of Lord Shiva gets its name from the natural underground spring upon which it resides — possibly also the reason why the moat has never dried, no matter how severe a drought.

Legend has it that, fearing the Mughal invasion, the reigning ruler hid the deity to prevent destruction. Through the battles with the Adil Shahis of Bijapur worship ceased. But so well was the lingam protected that it was never found. And therefore the dubious sobriquet — the temple with no deity.

Eventually, post-independence, the locals consecrated the statues again and rituals resumed after a kumbhabishekam. The temple itself is now cared for by a trust.

The big, resplendent Ganeshas — straight ahead and to the right, as you enter — give you an idea of what to expect.

You are now in a shrine that really does place cleanliness next to Godliness.

The Vellore Fort.

At every sannidhi (multiple places of worship within a temple), the alankaram (decorative flowers and attire for the Gods) for the deities is aesthetically appealing. The area is swept clean and shining, polished brass is everywhere.

The Nandi (Shiva's favoured vaahana) and the dwarapalakas are obviously the original, ancient ones — the smoothened edges, worn with age, have not lessened their inspiring sculptures in any way.

Grimy oil patches, dried flowers, omnipresent cobwebs, wet floors and the odd cockroach — all of these are conspicuously absent.

Although the temple is small in relative terms, its upkeep is comparable to that of the enormous Brihadeeshwara Temple in Thanjavur.

To the left is an intricately carved granite mandapam (auditorium) with every pillar reflecting exquisite carvings. While tradition requires that you sit awhile at all Shiva temples, here one lingers also because it is difficult to leave.

Make an evening of it — that's the best time to take a walk along the ramparts of the fort. It will take an hour-and-a-half but it is well worth the time — rarely is a fort so accessible and remarkably intact.

A picnic on the lawns would make a nice end to a memorable day.

Vellore is genuinely famous for other things too — leading that list is the acclaimed Christian Medical College, known for its medical research and services.

The hilltop, stone-carved Vellamalai temple (about 18 km from Vellore) is also worth a visit.

The Yelagiri Hills (sometimes called the poor man's Ooty) are a couple of hours drive from the town.

However, it is the fort and its temple, which are bound to rest on the top of any tourist's suitcase of memories.

Fact file

How to get there

By air: Vellore is 145 km from Chennai, the closest airport.

By road: There are point-to-point State transport buses every half-an-hour and express services (with interim halts) every five minutes.

By rail: Katpadi, the closest railway station, is five km outside the city and a junction for all broad-gauge lines between Bangalore and Chennai, as well as metre-gauge lines going up to Tiruchi and Madurai.

When to visit: The Southern spring falls post North-East monsoons, between December and February.

Pictures by the author

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