The Hindu Business Line : Seducing silence in Shivpuri

Thanks to its rulers, Shivpuri's majestic past has been transformed into an effervescent and hopeful present for tourists, making it a desired destination for history hunters, motorists and nature-lovers, says N. Shiva Kumar.

The cenotaphs that dot Shivpuri synthesise the architectural idioms of the Hindu and Islamic styles.

With fear taking flight in the wake of the terrorist attacks in the US, it's time to explore the unknown within the sub-continent. Imagine you are a great explorer, like Christopher Columbus or Vasco de Gama who travelled around without a passport or other unwanted paraphernalia required of today's tourists. Take a train or better still drive around in your own vehicle. Take the road less travelled. Just get going and that is what I did recently when I took off in my four-wheel drive to the nerve-soothing surroundings of Shivpuri.

Shivpuri, in north Madhya Pradesh, was once the summer capital of the Scindias of Gwalior. Earlier, its impenetrable forests were the playgrounds of the Mughal emperors who hunted wild animals for pleasure.and profit.

It has been recorded that Emperor Akbar captured great herds of mighty elephants that roamed the multi-layered forests unhindered by man. Over the years, however, the elephant numbers dwindled and were ultimately exterminated by the greed of the overzealous Mughal rulers.

Much later, it was the striped tiger that was in the limelight in the forested hills and vales of Shivpuri. Many a magnificent beast was `bagged' by the royal hunters, who ruthlessly killed them for the silly-looking stuffed trophies.

With its luxuriant forest tracts and undulating hills, Shivpuri was a natural choice as the summer resort and for some time, the capital of the Scindia rulers.

Today, Shivpuri's royal ambience lives on in the form of exquisite palaces and hunting lodges. Graceful and intricately embellished marble cenotaphs (chhatris) erected by the Scindia rulers and many stately structures still exist as testimony to the impressive lineage of kings and queens. The dream theme of the Scindias was born here — a sprawling sanctuary spread over 337 sq.km, with plenty of forests that are home to rare wildlife and avifauna.

The rulers of Shivpuri transformed a majestic past into an effervescent and hopeful present, especially for the benefit of tourists who love to seduce silence away from the hustle and bustle of the cities. Today, Shivpuri is a desired destination for history hunters, cross-country motorists and nature lovers.

Officially given the status in 1959 as the Madhav National Park, the Shivpuri sanctuary for flora and fauna is one of the few sanctuaries in the country which is open throughout the year. With a mottled terrain of undulating hills, the wooded forests are generally dry, mixed and deciduous. Large patches of grasslands around the lake offer breathing space and a clear view to sight a variety of wildlife.

The predominant species that inhabits the park are the graceful little chinkara, the Indian gazelle and the chital or the spotted deer.

Other species that have their habitat in the park is the Nilgai, a horse-like antelope, the doe-eyed sambhar, chausingha or four-horned antelopes, blackbuck, sloth bear and the rarely-seen leopard.

If you are lucky, one can sight a mugger crocodile basking in the sun or an Indian python dangling from a tree and even a monitor lizard scampering for easy prey.

With some of the largest tigers in the country shot here, the once abundant tiger is extinct in the remaining forests of Shivpuri. The National Park is equally rich in avifauna, copious flora and prolific insect life. In winter, the large artificial lake is home to migratory birds such as the bar-headed geese, pintail, teal, mallard and gadwall. A good site for bird watching is on the bund where the forest track crosses the wide rocky stream that flows from Waste Weir. Species that frequent this spot are red-wattled lapwing, wagtail, egrets and the purple heron. You can watch the antics of the white-breasted kingfisher trying its luck at fishing.

The avifauna also include the fast disappearing darters and the cormorants, the commonly seen painted stork, ibis, spoonbill, sunbirds, paradise flycatcher and golden oriole. My checklist of resident and migratory birds totalled more than 70 species for one day. Between November and February, the migratory birds add to the local population and is the best time for leisurely bird watching in these jungles as visibility is good and so is the weather.

While the national park is close to Shivpuri, the town itself proves interesting with its architectural edifices. The royal tombs of the Scindias are set in a distinctive Mughal garden with green groves, cozy corners under flowering trees, intersected by walkways. Magnificent Mughal pavillions illuminated by Victorian lamps, the beautiful complex houses the cenotaphs of the Scindias in the centre as the main attraction. Facing each other across the water tank are the cenotaphs of Madho Rao Scindia and Queen Maharani Sakhya Raje Scindia. Synthesising the architectural idioms of the Hindu and Islamic styles with their peak-like spires, the cenotaphs have an imperial presence.

The glittering white marble surface of Madho Rao Scindia's cenotaph is inlaid in the pieta durra style, with precious and semi-precious lapis lazull and onyx for a spectacular effect similar to the Taj Mahal. The delicate trelliswork on either side of the cenotaphs adds to the striking settings.

The queen's cenotaph has a noble dignity of line and superb structural harmony. Both memorials contain life-size images of the Scindias, tended with extreme devotion every day by ceremonially dressed retainers who perform rituals with colourful flowers and fragrant joss sticks. In the evenings, the silence is broken by the melodious sound of music, as artists of Gwalior render classical ragas before the statues.

Other attractions at Shivpuri include the Madhav Vilas Palace. Situated on a natural elevation, the elongated rose-pink summer palace of the Scindias is built in truly royal proportions. A fine example of the colonial architecture, the `mahal', as it is locally called, is remarkable for its marble floor, grand columns, graceful terraces and the Ganapati Mandapa or sanctum. From the tall turrets, the vistas are amazing as one can see the spreading Shivpuri town and the wooded park with birds flying in large families.

George Castle, built by the Jiyaji Rao Scindia, is situated in the dense forests of the park at a high point. From here, the view of the placid lake is exceptional and the best time to visit the castle is at sundown, when the setting sun lights up the lake like a mirror highlighting the changing hues of the evening sky. During monsoon, the accompanying clouds at sunset create a colourful dramatic montage.

Sakhya Sagar Boat Club, located on the edge of the sanctuary of the Madhav National Park, is a prime habitat for the cold-blooded reptiles, the crocodiles. So make sure you do go for a swim with a metal coat! (Pack one if you can). The shore of the lake has a broad pier connecting the Boat Club, which was probably built by the British. With its airy sit-out balcony and delicate structure made of glass panels, the Boat Club's location has been strategically selected for deriving maximum pleasure of the place.

Short trips can be made from Shivpuri to Surwaya, about 21 km away, for views of the interesting remains of a fort, three Hindu temples, a monastery and step-well. Narwar is 41 km northeast of Shivpuri and a remarkable fortress atop a hillock. Karera Bird Sanctuary, 45 km away on the Shivpuri-Jhansi road, is meant for the protection of the highly-endangered great Indian bustard. Chances of seeing the big birds are very bleak, as I did not come across even a single. Try your luck; you may see the largest and extraordinary Ostrich-like Indian bird.

Pictures by the author

Fact file

Getting there

By air: The nearest airport to Shivpuri is 112 km away at Gwalior and well connected with Delhi, Bhopal, Indore and Mumbai.

By rail: The nearest railhead is 100 km at Jhansi and Gwalior is 112 km away.

By road: Shivpuri is connected by regular bus services with Gwalior, Indore, Bhopal, Jhansi, Ujjain and Sawai Madhopur.

Accommodation: The Madhya Pradesh Tourism runs Chinkara Motel and Tourist Village. A few private hotels are also available in Shivpuri town.

Tips: Along with the regular camera, throw in a binocular or a spot scope and plenty of film-rolls as there is a dearth of quality film-roll.

For transparency users, carrying fresh rolls is a must. While the days seem deceptively pleasant and comfortable, nights can be pretty cold during winter. Book your rooms in advance as there are few available.

Public transport is not reliable, so the best way to get around is to have your own vehicle as it saves time and no hassles.

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