The Hindu Business Line : Embellish

You can choose to shock, inspire or awe people into noticing you. Or make a subtle and classy impression. The choice is yours... and helping you make it are the accessories you choose.

A century ago, the Ladies' Home Journal ran a regular department called The Little Things of Dress displaying cut work collars, hand-painted fans, shoe buckles, hair decorations, lace-edged cuffs, delicately embroidered or hand-painted handkerchiefs, elaborate bead-and-sequin encrusted bags and feathered hat decorations. Only the nobility and well heeled could afford to buy them off the shelf. For the rest, it was photographs, which guided them in creating homespun replicated accessories.

"Miser purses", carriage parasols, tortoise-shell combs, antique hand-me-down family heirlooms in the shape of amulets, charms and chokers and calling-card cases established the priorities of well-to-do women in the early 19th century. Indeed, accessories took the form of personal mementos, turning into weapons in class wars and endorsing advertisements for the wearer's unique personality traits and accomplishments. How you detailed an outfit and the style and panache with which you carried off the accessory that could well be a signature statement, revealed mysterious aspects of your persona and station in life.

Accessories have always had the power to make or break the wearer's physical projection. Today's minimalist look, which lays great premium on individualistic stylisation, is made possible by the effective usage of an accessory. The wearer's creativity is further heightened by his bold experimentation and playfulness, bringing colour and character to the overall image he wants to present to the world.

Whether you want to create a Gothic inspired leather and lace effect or that of an Arabian princess covered in delicate beads, embroideries and furs, a feminine 50s' inspired silhouette or a turn of the century appeal which is austere and casual reminiscent of the peasant era, accessories can play a major transformational role.

Delhi's leading accessory designer, Rohini Khosla, who retails from the Ambavatta Complex, has stuck to her kitchy collection that is at once ethnic and post modern. From heishi, wooden beads, puka shells and clamshell necklaces to stretch and chunky charm bracelets and industrial spiked leather chokers, there is something for the conservative as well as the adventurous. For summer, she strongly recommends soft scarf-like wraps in chiffon, voile and georgette with a dash of sparkles, furs, mirrors or leather.

Belts which help in elongating the profile are being worn sensuously low on the hip and are coming in a crazy range which can help create whatever look you want... whimsical, romantic, decadent or deliberately untidy. Rohini's creations allure you with their gothic influences in big crosses, strings of beads and other charm-like symbols. Chinese motifs, brocade trimmings and Feng Shui trinkets are finding favour with trendy collegiates. A soft lingering floral perfume would complete the picture.

Depending on what you are wearing, and are comfortable with, you can play around with the accessories. On a petite frame, the peasant style accentuates the waif like look. Asymmetrical skirts and blouses gathered up at the neck and sleeves, teamed up with a chiffon scarf carelessly wound around soft, slippery hair with stray curls escaping and a single silver anklet completes the delicate babe lost-in-the-woods look. A smarter, bouncier appearance can be achieved by strappy sandals and a bag slung over the arm.

For creating deliberate carelessness which says, `I am not a fashion freak' the much used, just out-of-the-trunk denims, with slip on footwear, a bizarre pendant and hair comb which need not coordinate perfectly, is apt.

Young men are sporting the Latin Dandy' look, aimed at nonchalance with linen and linen blends, in retro versions of dark colours, dusty, pale shades and stripes which grandfathers wore once upon a time.

Aamir Khan's Dil Chahta Hai goatee is out as auburn coloured streaks, the kind which Sunny Deol sports in Hero along with spiked sharp-gelled standing-at-end strands are topical favourites.

For the older lot, Satya Paul's ties, retailed from stores like Shoppers Stop, are set in the classic mould. Exclusive prints and designs are a welcome deviation from standard stripes and geometrical motifs. Ties this season are skinnier, in colours which are best brought out over shiny silk and matte finished textures. Dressy summer shoes for men are wide and square at the tips, for both lace-ups and loafers.

Rubber and wedge-shaped soles are also part of the latest trend in footwear since they are more comfortable than traditional heels. Talking of comfort, many men have begun to sport shorts, T-shirts and Reebok sandals or Fabindia styled kurta pyjamas with Kolhapuri chappals, for informal evenings out.

Men are realising the comfort of having open footwear, which allows the feet to breathe. But Indian women are more conservative when it comes to footwear. Towering stilettos with pointed tips in Retro inspired Mary Jane's, Robin Hoods and Lord of the Rings elfish suede boots may be the latest, but they have been sidelined as Indian women prefer daintier more lady like shoes and sandals.

While summer wardrobes are never complete without whites, creams, off whites and beiges, the focus this season is on colour. Pink in shades and tones of fuchsia, magenta and baby pink is the leader of the pack with lime greens, genteel mauves, patriotic oranges and electric turquoises close behind.

Patronising accessories has become such a pre requisite to good dressing that leading costume designers Rina Dhaka, Rocky S, Aki Narula, Sabina Singh and Rohit Gandhi have hopped onto the bandwagon, while Kalyani Chawla and Simar Duggal specialise in accessories. Sabyasachi from Kolkatta uses old-fashioned spectacles and large cloth bags to create a chic and easy to acquire look which is dramatic, Indian and cosmopolitan, all at the same time.

Power dressing is a studied cultivation meant to impact, intimidate and create an awesome presence, especially by working women. In a business meeting where there is negotiation and an attempt at telling the person across that you are just the person for the job, accessories like a folder, briefcase, watch, mobile, mobile cover, pen, footwear, an odd scarf or coat pin can add to the no-fuss, serious image, which strengthens the content of your presentation.

At work it is discreet and yet feminine jewellery which is ideal and with so many ranges and names in the market today, a thin gold chain with a tiny diamond pendant teamed up with diamond tops adds to your efficient image. The same outfit in the evening can be given a makeover with a pair of big dangling earrings, a cluster of metallic bangles and a bright scarf.

With Indians moving away from their attachment to the yellow metal and taking to semi precious stones, not on an astrologer's recommendation but because it matches moods, seasons and changing fashion trends, designers are seeing commercial sense in adding a line to their regular collections. Semi precious stones look chic and keep you cool in summers. Rose quartz emits calming energy, rejuvenating the body and mind. Amethyst is cool and relaxing, promoting meditation, peace, tranquillity and oneness with the Universe. White Opal has water and lunar elements, balancing and harmonising emotions. Blue and white crystals relieve headaches and heat strokes. Moonstone cools and nurtures. Aquamarine eases sunburn, fever and temper. White gold may be a transitional craze but pearls and silver will remain evergreen favourites.

Ultimately the outfit or accessory notwithstanding, it is the confidence, attitude and poise with which you carry yourself that will set you apart. You may shock, inspire and awe others into noticing you or make a subtle and classy impression. But what will ultimately get reflected, staying in the other's visual mindscape long after you have exited the scene, is the aura you have exuded and this can come only from a person who is comfortable with what she is. What she wears comes later.

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