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Warming up to winter

Inder Raj Ahluwalia

Thirty minutes on the highway can be heady enough, especially on the Alps, especially in the Tyrolean Alps...

Leaving Innsbruck, we had meandered through snowy meadows rimmed in by mountains, and landed smack in the centre of town which was knee-deep in snow. By way of inspiration, we learnt it was 11 degrees below zero.

They advertise Seefeld as a town where ``one won't need palm trees, sand and sea, the only sea on offer being the `See' in the name Seefeld''. Sounds a bit vain but there is plenty to back up this claim, as one quickly finds out.

The Tyrolean mountain world is a land apart, offering great opportunities for pleasurable holidays. It's not for nothing that the town was chosen twice as the venue for Winter Olympic Games. Here one can pursue and enjoy every winter sport imaginable.

Located at the gate to the Karwendel Preserve, the largest unpopulated mountain area in Europe, Seefeld is 1,200 metres high, and an outdoorman's paradise. There are vertical and extreme rock faces for the climbers among the mountaineers, lush meadows an d forests for those inclined to notice the beauty of nature, 100 km of nature walks, and lonely trails of all grades of difficulty for recreational and more demanding hikes.

There are marked hiking paths at high altitudes, climbing paths with safety devices, mountain cabins with refreshments, guided hikes, and above all, unique panorama. There is also the `Olympia swimming pool', tennis, paragliding, mountain biking and bicy cle touring, folk music evenings, and a museum of local history and culture.

One can raft and experience the raging forces of Tyrolean waters in acclaimed runs that take one through spectacular scenery.

Keen to ensure that Seefeld becomes popular as a family destination and that families visit, local authorities have created plenty to do for the young. There are skateboards, in-line skates and mountain bikes. And the `Olympia' indoor swimming pool has s eparate pools for children.

Nature extends beyond hiking and trekking. It was only a matter of time before golfers discovered the region's unique natural charms. Golfers who come here feel they have found paradise. One gets to play on Alpine pastures in fresh air on an 18-hole cham pionship course, surrounded by forests and mountain panorama. The game's popularity at the local course has led to the establishment of the Golf Academy, which offers ideal training grounds in the very heart of Seefeld.

Those who prefer larger balls and a tennis racket are offered `total tennis' at the famous Swedish tennis school which helped such outstanding players such as Bjorn Borg, Mats Wilander and Stefen Edberg to reach the top of their game.

We trudged through the snow to the town centre, a charming little square with trendy boutiques and lively bistros. Here one does the traditional coffee and cakes stop. Tourists thronged the square, and things were comparatively noisy for a while. Typical of Austria, tradition is still very much alive in town, throughout the year. For a place so small, there's plenty happening, what with a Winter Snow Festival, a Summer Flower Festival, merry get-togethers with folk music, a flower parade in August, chur ch concerts, concerts given by the brass band, folk music evenings, and comic peasant plays.

Over dinner, we saw a popular folk dance that depicted the ritual of wooing and proposing, the girls looking suitably maidenly, the boys suitably bashful. But there was no shortage of mirth all around.

A very good way of learning about local culture is by taking guided tours relating to biology and natural history ad exhibitions. And one can visit the Gothic church in the centre of town as well as the small Seekirchl church.

When night starts to fall in Seefeld, the fun continues. Entertainment for any taste and age is the guiding principle. There are `cool' pubs and `hot' discos for some, romantic wine cellars and cosy evenings with the zither playing, for others. There are performances of international stars, wine tasting for connoisseurs, and night taxis for night owls.

The undisputed centre of things is the Casino, so that's where we went. This was gaming with a vengeance. Run by Casinos Austria, one of the world's largest casino operators in the world, this is where upto a thousand people descend daily during the seas on, to try their hand and luck at the tables, and enjoy a drink or two while they are at it.

There was a snooty atmosphere to the place but the staff was professional yet friendly. There are classical games such as French Roulette, American Roulette, three types of poker, Blackjack, and a variety of slot machines. And there is international flai r. In my inimitable style, I managed to loose at every single table I visited. Oh well, it's the participation that counts, I told myself as I got `cleaned out'.

But I was in Seefeld just for one night, so what the heck...

Fact file

How to get there: Seefeld is best accessed via Innsbruck, which is about three hours by train from Vienna. Austrian Airways operates direct flights from Delhi to Vienna.

Where to stay: The town has some 3,000 inhabitants, 9,000 hotel beds, and gets some 1,300,000 annual visitors. Accommodation is available to suit your budget.

What to eat: There is local food in original inns or high cuisine in gourmet restaurants. The local gourmet guide is worth trying.

How to get around: There is no need for local transport and a short walk gets one to all the places of interest.