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Eat Indian

Sumitra Senapaty

Nothing seems Indian at Caraway except for the food! It is a contemporarily designed restaurant serving regional Indian cuisine prepared, as we have always known, in the tandoori oven, sigri and kadai.

Upon entering, one can't help but focus on the spectacular Tandoor display -- ovens with exhausts, which reach out to the dome-like ceiling. (The three tandoors are reserved for vegetarian cooking, non-vegetarian kababs and bread respectively.)

In keeping with the contemporary look of the restaurant, chrome is in highlight throughout, starting with the entrance. Centrally located is the stunningly dramatic `show kitchen', which brings to view the preparation process of a variety of specialty it ems.

A simple, clean and light interior decor contrasts with the rich and fulfilling cuisine of North India. In fact the absence of heritage evoking names such as Nawaab, Shataranj or Taj Mahal, add to the charm of this unusual restaurant.

Simply put here is a place continental to look at but Indian to taste! Caraway at Delhi's Grand Hyatt is a luxury restaurant, but that doesn't just mean someone standing around in a uniform, as is the wont in some upmarket eateries.

Caraway, the `Indian Brasserie' is clearly on its way to becoming a gastronomic landmark, not only because of its expertise in adding that unique flavour to North Indian cooking, but more importantly, because of its adaptation and creation of a cuisine that is well-suited to modern tastes.

From initial concept to successful opening, Caraway is the perfect example of the new breed of Indian restaurants to hit the scene. Strong on aroma, flavour, quality and presentation, rather than an emphasis on spices, oil and immense portions, this is a restaurant that many have come back to.

Smack in the middle of the restaurant, facing the tandoors, is the lively and unusual Brasserie Bar. Visually impressive, it has more than ample counter space for lively bartenders offering cocktails and mocktails. Guests may sit at the circular bar for a pre-dinner drink, or may also decide to dine at the bar. The bar features a good collection of Single Malts and is also the first Indian restaurant in the city to serve draft beer.

And one of the other pleasures of sipping a drink at Caraway, is the unique ambiance of this fine dining restaurant. The subtle notes of piped instrumental music set the tone and the mood and the split-elevations to various dining sections lend Caraway a colonial elegance.

Jai Krishnan, known as the `Chef with Vision', brings to his guests an understanding and appreciation of different types of Indian cuisine that originated from cooking techniques that have been handed down through several generations. Early in his career , he imbibed the Hyderabadi style of curries and biryanis and then moved on to discover the coastal cuisine of Goa, Karnataka, Kerala and Rajasthan.

Commenting on the variety of Indian food, Krishnan says, ``Most visitors to India and, especially, Delhi are astonished at the variety of delicious food on offer, some bearing little or no resemblance to the preparations touted as `authentically Indian' in other countries.''

Starters include Pathar Ke Kabab, a subtly flavoured lamb kabab with cinnamon and nutmeg (Rs 250). Chatpati Jhinga is also a recommended preparation, delicious wok fried prawns with garlic and chilly (Rs 320). Or you could try out Murg Tikka Chat (Rs 250 ). And in case you decide to begin the meal with a soup, choose the Panchrattan Shorba, a warm lentil broth simmered with garlic and cumin (Rs 120).

At Caraway, good food doesn't have to be necessarily hot and spicy. Moreover, the calorie-conscious aspect has not been ignored either, as kababs are cooked in their own fat as per the tandoori style of cooking. This automatically ensures that there is l ess use of other oils.

And for those who relish a wonderful vegetarian course there is a mouth-watering array of dishes. Indian vegetarian cooking, it is widely acknowledged, is among the best on offer in the world of vegetarianism. Tandoori Kumbh -- button mushrooms with ging er, coriander and yoghurt (Rs 180), is a good choice for starters. The main course includes Peshawari Bharwan Aloo or potatoes with cottage cheese, cashew and pomegranate (Rs 280). Another vegetarian option is Tandoori Banarasi Gobi or cauliflower in yog hurt and cumin with dried figs (Rs 280).

The chef's recommendation is the Raan-e-Khyber, leg of spring lamb with caraway and cloves (Rs 580). The Zaffrani Murg Tikka (Rs 460), chicken breast with saffron, green cardamom and cottage cheese is yet another `must-try'.

All main courses at Caraway are served with liberal helpings of two different types of dal and a number of quaint chutneys and pickles. Saturated fat and sugar may be silent killers when taken in excess, but then they do taste good!

And what's better than to end a sumptuous meal with the Caraway Dessert Platter (Rs 350), and if you think the price is a little steep then remember it is meant to be shared by two. Tandoori pineapple, sesame chocolate tart with chilled walnut cream and three massive scoops of ice-cream -- chocolate, caramel and the exotic star-anise flavour. This is served with three sauces -- pista-yoghurt, orange-chutney and apple-chutney with caramel and nut crackers.

Caraway is `A la Carte' and opens only for dinner. And every day of the year it plays host to a variety of Asian and European customers who swear by its authentic taste. And Krishnan, at his innovative best, does play around with the manner in which the dishes are presented but never tampers with the basic ingredients.

Don't you remember grandmother's words -- for that wonderful taste always stick to actual ingredients and cooking methods that are maybe a thousand years old. And Caraway lives up to grandmother's prescriptions and expectations.

Reservations to dine at Caraway at Grand Hyatt, Delhi, can be made on 011-6121234.