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Stepping stones to riches

Isidore Domnick Mendis

Shakespeare's famous quote, ``All that glitters is not gold'' should have had a postscript: ``And all those glittering stones are not diamonds either.''

For aeons, unscrupulous dealers thrived simply because there was no fool-proof method of evaluating a gemstone's worth. Also, the evaluators were in small numbers and the methods used were hopelessly outdated.

Today, the outlook is brighter, thanks to newer technologies. In India, professional gemmology institutes have come up in many places which both evaluate gemstones and impart scientific training in the art.

There are two institutes in Delhi -- the Gem & Jewellery Institute set up by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council and the Indian Institute of Gemology -- and one in Noida -- the Jewellery Design & Technology Institute. In Mum bai, you have the Indian Gemological Institute and, in Surat -- the hub of precious stone trade in India -- is the Indian Diamond Institute.

These institutes are proving to be a boon to buyers of precious stones. Take the case of Shailender Singh, a prosperous car dealer in South Delhi who bought a diamond ring for his daughter's wedding for Rs. 75,000. Two years later, when he heard about the Indian Institute of Gemology, he brought the ring for evaluation. Within an hour his worst fears were confirmed. His purchase was merely a cheap substitute for diamond -- the synthetic cubic zirconia commonly known as Ame rican diamond which few can tell from the real.

Shailender's is not a solitary example; over the years, thousands of people have been swindled. Few jewellers ever share their knowledge in gem identification and thrive on people's ignorance.

However, their days may be numbered now. Technologies such as fluorescence test, methylene iodide immersion test and thermal conductivity test are a reliable and fail-safe means of sniffing out fake stones.

But more than just evaluating precious stones, these institutes have become important seats of education and are attracting students in high numbers.

Interestingly, the profile of the students is eclectic. Executives, doctors, engineers and other professionals are enrolling in large numbers for a course in gemmology.

Explains Gurmit Singh, Director of the Indian Institute of Gemology, ``A gem costing Rs. 5,000 can fetch Rs. 10,000 in the international market. That's why many professionals are into gem exports as a side business and come to us for special ising in this science.''

Another reason for the popularity of these courses is the entry of foreign giants such as De Beers. Many Indian gem companies are also venturing into global markets. This has opened a wealth of opportunities for persons qualified with a degree in gem mology.

The courses on offer include identification of gems, diamond grading, jewellery designing and identification of synthetic gems. Many students passing out of these institutes are quickly absorbed by the large trading houses. But, says Gurmi t Singh, ``The real bucks are in entrepreneurship. Once you gain a good reputation as an evaluator, customers will come in hordes.''

A good example would be Rajan Patel who owns a small shop in Mumbai's Zhaveri Bazar. A specialist in grading diamonds, Rajan, by his own admission, makes over Rs. 1 lakh a month. His secret of success is deceptively simple. ``As long as t here are dishonest jewellers, my business will keep booming!''

On the rocks...

* Fluorescence test: There's a special ultraviolet light which instantly detects fakes. If the diamond is genuine, it will emit a blue light. If it is fake, then a yellow light will be flashed.

* Methylene iodide immersion test: When a precious stone is immersed in a high refractive-index liquid such as methylene iodide, the visibility of the diamond remains prominent while those of other stones become translucent.

* Conductivity test: This is based on the principle that the conduction of heat through a diamond is faster compared to fakes. When the tester's needle is placed on a diamond, the heat is absorbed instantly. On the other hand, it can take almost a minute or so for the other kinds to absorb the heat completely.

Pic.: There are fail-safe tests for all kinds of gems and jewellery.