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Taste what the royals ate

Shona Adhikari

A palace named after a monarch as refined and well versed in the arts as Maharaja Lall Singh of Bikaner could'nt but be aesthetically imposing. The Lailgarh Palace, built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1902, in the memory of his father is a masterpiece of re d sandstone with some of the most intricate filigree work seen anywhere in Rajasthan.

At this magnificent palace the nearby desert sands have been held at bay. Designed and constructed by a Britisher, Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob, Ganga Singhs residence was the cynosure of all eyes.

According to the chef at the royal kitchens of Lailgarh Palace from the days of Maharaja Ganga Singh, the food served at important occasions was essentially Western, with one or two samples of Bikaneri cuisine thrown in just to add that ethnic touch. Thi s was mainly to ensure that the foreign guest didnt forget that he was in the fief of the Maharaja of Bikaner.

Among the favourite dishes from this region are Safed Maas, a delicious preparation of lamb in yogurt, and the innovative Papad Methi Ro Saag, made out of fresh fenugreek (methi) and papad.

Safed Maas (Serves four)

Preparation time: 90 minutes.

Cooking time: 60 minutes.

Ingredients

Kid lamb shanks (kareli nalli), 12 pieces.

For marination

Yogurt cheese (hung yogurt), 100 gm;

Garlic paste, 10 gm;

Ginger paste, 10 gm;

Raw papaya paste, 5 gm;

Green chilli paste, 5 gm;

White pepper powder, 2 gm;

Forx gravy

Desi ghee (clarified butter), 100 ml

Green cardamom, 8

Cloves, 5

Cinnamon sticks, 2

Bayleaves 2

Mace blades 2

Boiled onion paste 200 gm

Cashewnut paste 50 gm

Melon seeds paste 20 gm

Poppy seeds paste 5 gm

Yogurt cheese, 300 gm

White pepper powder 3 gm

Clear mutton stock 500 ml

Fresh dairy cream 25 ml

Fresh green chillies 2

Red chillies (whole) 2

Salt to taste.

Preparation

Clean and remove the sinews on the meat. Carefully cut along the shanks to expose the bone, ensuring that the meat doesnt come off it at the top. Wash and pat dry.

Marination

Mix all the ingredients and evenly rub the meat on the shanks with this mixture. Keep the dish aside for at least 60 minutes.

Remove the stems of the chillies. Wash, slit, de-seed, and cut the green and red chillies into thin juliennes and reserve for garnish.

Heat the ghee in a handi or an ordinary pan and add the green cardamom, cloves, cinnamon sticks, bay leaves and mace. Stir over medium heat until the green cardamom changes colour. Then add the ginger paste and garlic paste and stir fry till the moisture evaporates, but ensure that the masala doesnt get coloured.

Increase the flame to high heat and add the marinated shanks.

Again, stir fry to sear and seal in the juices for five minutes approximately. Then add the boiled onion paste and stir fry till the fat begins to appear on the surface. But remember, the masala shouldnt get coloured. Add the cashew-nut paste, melon seed s paste and poppy seeds paste and stir fry them.

Remove the handi from heat. Stir in the yogurt along with white pepper powder and salt. Return to the flame and stir fry until the meat is cooked. Add more stock in small quantities, if required. Remove the shanks from the gravy and keep them aside. Pass the gravy through a fine-mesh soup strainer into a different saucepan. Now, return the gravy to the flame and let it simmer till it thickens to a saucy consistency. Put the shanks back and let them simmer in the gravy for another three minutes. Remove t he handi from the heat and add the cream. Adjust the seasoning. Garnish the dish with juliennes of green and red chillies.

Gatta Tari

Ingredients

For Gatta

Coriander (dhania) (whole) 200 gm

Fennel (saunf ) (whole) 20 gm

Peppercorns (kaii mirch) (whole) 20 gm

Chillies (whole) 20 gm

Cloves (laung) 3

Yogurt 30 gm

Flour (besan) 200 gm

Butter (desi ghee) 50 gm

Water for boiling gatta 350 ml

For the garnish

Green chillies chopped 2

For the gravy

Coriander powder 200 gm

Yogurt 220 gm

Green coriander 2 teaspoons

Turmeric powder half-a- tea spoon

Salt to taste

Fenugreek Half-a-teaspoon

Cloves 5

Peppercorns 15

Clarified butter 100 ml

A pinch of asafoetida (hing)

Red chilli powder 2 teaspoons

Cardamoms 3 (large)

Cinnamon sticks 2

Bayleaf 2

The Gatta

Mix coriander, fennel, cumin, red chillies, pepper corn and grind semi-fine. Add ground masala to gram flour and mix with curd and fat. Shape into one-inch wide batons. Boil water, add gatta and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the water, cut the gatta i nto one-fourth-of-an-inch thick roundels. Keep the water aside for use later.

Heat clarified butter in a deep pan, add cumin and asafoetida. Heat till the spice splutters, add cloves, peppercorn, cinnamon sticks, bay leaf and cardamom. Stir at medium heat till light golden brown. Add powdered coriander, turmeric, fenugreek and red chillies. Pour in 30 ml (four teaspoons) water, stir and fry till fat appears on the surface. Add water (used earlier for boiling gatta) and curd, stir constantly on medium flame till the gravy thickens. Add gatta and seasoning, stir and cook for one mi nute.

Serve in a bowl garnished with green chillies and green coriander.

Missi Roti

IngredientsGramflour(besan) 100gm

Coriander (fresh) 50 gm

Refined flour 40 gm

Green chillies chopped - 30 gm

Bishops weed (ajwain) - 10 gm

Clarified butter (ghee) - 50 ml

Red chilli powder - 15 gm

Salt to taste

Water for making dough

Mix both flours, knead and make a well in the middle of the dough. Pour all the other ingredients into it and mix well, kneading till it turns into a semi- soft mixture of dough. Keep for 15 minutes. Make small chapatis, apply clarified butter and serve.

Picture: A serving of Safed Maas, a Bikaneri delicacy.