• PAGE ONE
• INDEX
• HOME

Valley of enchantment

N. Shiva Kumar

Located 120 km northwest of Visakhapatnam in Andhra Pradesh at an altitude of 3,000 ft, Arraku Valley is an ideal getaway beckoning irresistibly to beleaguered city dwellers to spend a few days in luxurious solitude. Emerald green vegetation, tumbling wa terfalls and the melodious calls of songbirds also make the place an ornithologist's paradise.

Arraku Valley is about four hours by road and a little longer by train from Visakhapatnam. Snugly situated in the high hills of the Eastern Ghats, Andhra Pradesh, it is an enchanting place, yet to be discovered by the common tourist.

Our romantic train journey started from the Visakhapatnam Railway Station in the early hours of the day. As the train lumbered and chugged along the curvaceous broad-gauge railway line to Kirandul in Madhya Pradesh, we could see both the engine and tail- end carriages simultaneously. Numerous small and big tunnels provide additional joy to the delightful journey, particularly enjoyed by children who collectively scream with glee as and when the train enters and exits a tunnel.

Constructed in the late 1960s to transport high-grade iron ore, the railway line penetrates the towering hills of the Eastern Ghats. It is indeed a marvel of construction as the 50-odd tunnels have been methodically blasted and excavated without undue de struction to the jungles. This line is regarded as the highest broad-gauge line in the world and it peaks at 3,272 ft. En route, we came across many quaint, quiet and diminutive railway stations such as S.Kota, Shivalingapuram, Tyada, Chimidi palli and K arakavalsa. The train also went past India's highest broad-gauge station, Shimiliguda. We got off at the tiny Borra Caves Railway Station and the train continued its journey into the hills. A mini bus waiting at the station first took us to Arraku Valley and then to the fascinating Borra Caves.

The Arraku area is thickly forested with tall trees, giant creepers and thick bushes. Lush paddy and millet crops add their charm, going up the slopes in neat, terraced plots. Although the railway tracks, serpentine roads and electric transmission lines reflect the process of modern development, the forests are relatively unspoiled. The reason is clear -- Arraku is home to 17 ethnic tribes, who love their jungles and conserve it with great insight and a wisdom that has been passed down many generations.

The natural beauty of this valley comes alive with the aboriginal tribes who dwell here and who have, to this day, kept their tradition and culture alive. The Dhimsa dance, an age-old traditional folk dance, is still performed here during ``Itika Pongal' ' -- the famous hunting festival in April, resounding to the melody of the jungle drums and their echo reverberating in the valleys. Ananthagiri (endless hills) plays host to a flourishing flora and fauna that is unique to this region of the Eastern Ghat s.

An informative Tribal Habitat Museum, specially constructed, has numerous life-size human models as exhibits to explain the tools and weapons in daily use. Their garments and agricultural implements are also displayed in large numbers.

After a sumptuous lunch at the Yatri Nivas guesthouse at Arraku Valley, we were taken to the Borra Caves, some distance away. The limestone underground chambers are believed to be one million years old. These caves are located in deep underground natural cavities, probably created by a fast-flowing underground river, which has now completely dried up. However, one can see the small, rapid brown waters of River Gostani tumbling down the valley. The fantastic stalactite and stalagmite formations in the ca ves are incredible designs deftly carved by Nature.

These beautiful caves were discovered by accident. It is believed that a young cowherd lost a cow in this forest and his intense search resulted in his finding a deep dungeon where his cow had fallen. He was wonderstruck by the dark, deep connecting cham bers and strange formations with grotesque shapes and sizes inside the caves. That was how these magical mesmirising caves were discovered.

Unfortunately, these caves were not totally explored for many years. Realising their potential, the Andhra Pradesh Tourism department illuminated the interiors of the caves in 1993. As a result, tourist inflow has also substantially increased.

Tourism opportunities have not been fully utilised in Andhra Pradesh, despite the fact that the State has been endowed with an attractive array of small and big tourist destinations. However, the Arraku and Borra rail-cum-road package tour is an exceptio n. Jointly organised by the State Tourism Department and the Indian Railways, it is, by far, one of the cheapest and the best in the country. With a charge of just Rs 270 per passenger, the trip has a part-rail-part-road journey by train and bus. It incl udes morning tea, the day's newspaper, breakfast and lunch accompanied by the unique Dhimsa dance performed by the tribes. So, pack your bags for a jungle jaunt and feast your eyes on the gorgeous Arraku Valley and Borra Caves.

Fact file

How to get there: The Arraku Valley is 120 km from Visakhapatnam.

The Andhra Pradesh State Tourism Department and the Indian Railways have brought out an Arraku and Borra rail-cum-road package tour. The package, at Rs 270 per passenger, is inclusive

of morning tea, the day's newspaper, breakfast and a sumptuous lunch accompanied by the Dhimsa dance.

By road: It is four hours by road from Visakhapatnam.

By rail: The Arraku Valley is on the broad-gauge railway line to Kirandul in Madhya Pradesh.

Picture: The picturesque Arraku valley with the Gostani river.