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Chail chalo

N. Shiva Kumar

Ten years ago, when I first set foot in Shimla to escape the heat and dust of Delhi, I was surprised to see the place packed with people. The surprise turned to shock when every third person turned out to be a known Delhiwala and the mall road gave the impression of being one of the crowded lanes of Chandni Chowk. I beat a hasty retreat to nearby Naldhera and Kufri to enjoy the solitude. I promised never to return. On my return to Delhi, a friend suggested that I visit Chail, a secl uded and peaceful place close to Shimla.

Recently I persuaded my lazy bones to make the promised trip and drove nearly 400 km straight up to Chail. Negotiating the curvaceous roads and hairpin bends near Shimla, I was distressed to see that most of the trees had disappeared from the h illsides, replaced by box-like ugly buildings. Not very long ago, the slopes of the hills were covered by thriving trees that swayed to the wind. If the Angrez were to see Shimla today, they would exclaim, ``What a fall for the `Queen of hills '!''.

Leaving Shimla behind, I drove up the lonely and small winding road up the hill towards Chail. The higher I went, the greener was the vegetation, the trees seemed to grow taller and bigger, and the air got crisper and clearer.

It was already becoming beautiful and by the time I reached the top, it was absolutely bewitching. Time to chill out in the hills and to relax on the carpet of cool, emerald grass. The warm and sunny weather, coupled with the cool breeze, was therape utic and tantalising. The silence of the hills, the solitude and the cool breeze -- it was a perfect balm.

The next day I was greeted by a glorious sunrise. The golden glow seemed to penetrate the very peaks. Soon the orange orb rose and the thickly forested hillsides sprang to life, coaxing us to explore Chail.

A `slice of spice'

Perched at a height of 2,250 metres above sea level, Chail is one of the smallest Himalayan hill resorts in Himachal Pradesh. When the British expelled Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala, from Shimla, he was determined to create his own summer cap ital. He looked around and found Chail, a ``slice of spice'' surrounded by lush forests with a commanding view of the snow-capped Himalayas. He rebuilt the little village according to his requirements. That was how Chail was born. Just 45 km from Shiml a, surrounded by a thick cover of deodars, and situated at a higher altitude, Chail was the perfect choice in the British-controlled Shimla.

Chail is a resort in the real sense of the term. Most city dwellers, used to urban cacophony, will be taken aback by the chilling silence of the scenic locale.

Chail is built on three hills cloistered in harmony with the surrounding landscape. Perched on the Rajgarh hill is the Chail palace, the second one is the Sabba Tibba which has a one-lane village with small hutments, and the third is Pandhe wa hill, proudly displaying the snow view mansion. Built in I891, the villa of the Maharaja is on 75 acres of land blending with the adjoining woodlands. Today, the villa has been converted into the Chail Palace Hotel and operated by the Himachal Tourism Development Corporation as a Heritage hotel. It, however, retains all the paraphernalia associated with royal splendour -- huge dining tables, large wardrobes, kingsize beds, antique furniture within and imposing architecture, sloping roof and sprawling green lawns on the outside. In 1966, the Maharaja's son renovated the palace, before the Government purchased it. In 1972, it was taken over by the Himachal Pradesh Development Corporation and has since been a luxury r esort combining nostalgia with modern-day conveniences.

The log huts can be a fascinating experience for those who love to live amidst nature. They are situated about a km from the main building and overlook a valley. From within the huts one can watch the clouds settle down on the valley, the lights s himmering at night and feel the cold seeping right into one's bones. One can also experience total silence, enjoy the swish of the wind, chirping of birds, walk in the moonlight and if one's lucky, witness the silent flight of the great horned owl.

If he is looking for his mate, the owl will send a booming hoot that will make you jump of out your skin.

Cricket in high places

Three km from the village is the world's highest cricket ground (2,444 metres) built in 1893. (The Maharaja of Patiala had a penchant for cricket and had a vast stretch of land flattened in the Himalayan terrain for cricket.) For many years, the cricket ground merited a mention in the Guinness Book of World Records. Though the record has not been broken, Guinness Book has decided to delete the documentation because no competitive cricket is being conducted there. Today, the local lads use the venue for inter-school matches or the nearby contingent of the Indian military holds its sports meet and march-pasts. The sprawling grounds are well-kept with manicured lawns. Huge trees of deodar and pine surround the playground in a mute standing ovation.

There is also a wildlife sanctuary three km from Chail where I saw deer and many colourful birds. Chail is also an ideal getaway for hikers.

During winters, Chail turns snow-white and one can do the Santa Claus act and go skiing down the snowy slopes. To beat the heat, pack your bags and look no further, stop at Chail and chill out.

Fact file

How to get there

By road: Chail is 400 km from Delhi, I50 km from Chandigarh, 85 km from Kalka and about 45 km from Shimla.

By rail: Shimla is connected by a narrow gauge railway line with Kalka which in turn is connected with the major cities.

When to visit: May-July and September-November.

Tips: For visiting during winter, please check with the Tourism Department of Himachal Pradesh for the right kind of weather. Deluxe and budget hotels and cottages are available. For reservations and more information, one can contact their offices in Ahm edabad, Bangalore, Delhi, Chandigarh, Chennai, Mumbai or Shimla. They also operate conducted tours during the season from Delhi and Shimla. To avoid disappointment make sure of hotel bookings.