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The pride of Ranthambhore

N.Shiva Kumar

Diwali is usually a deafening experience for most of us, but this year we doctored it to be different. We decided to celebrate the completion of 25 years of Project Tiger in Ranthambhore. So, we set off on a four-day sojourn to see the tiger in the h interland of eastern Rajasthan.

We set off at dawn on Day One and headed towards Jaipur from New Delhi. After a 10-hour drive (which could have actually been eight), we reached the small town of Sawai Madhopur. After enquiring about the jungle jaunts for the next day, we retired for the day.

The Ranthambhore National Park was once the hunting ground of the Maharaja of Jaipur. In 1957, it was declared a wildlife sanctuary and was later given the status of a National Park. With the commissioning of Project Tiger, it was included in this ambitious nation-wide project in 1974 to protect the striped feline, which was steadily declining in numbers.

The addition of neighbouring Kela Devi and Man Singh sanctuaries has increased the total area of the park to about 1,350 sq km. But the entire park -- the core area is just 400 sq km -- is not open to the general public.

For the wildlife-savvy, Ranthambhore offers an intense diversity of flora and fauna and tigers are the park's pride. It is one of the best places in the country to observe the tiger in its full glory, and that too, in broad daylight.

The Ranthambhore Park is strategically located between the undulating Aravalli and Vindhya hill ranges. Its mixed deciduous forests were once a part of the glorious jungles of vast Central India. The terrain is tough and rugged with magnifice nt rocky ridges, hills and open valleys with sprawling lakes and numerous pools. The sanctuary is a unique juxtaposition of natural wealth and historical treasures. There are lake palaces, remarkable chhatris, run-down fortifications and a majes tic 1,000-year-old fort overlooking the park. The fortress of Ranthambhore, built by the Rajput kings, stands tall at the edge of the park.

Today, the Ranthambhore National Park is a major tourist destination. The park has been visited by distinguished personalities such as the late Prime Minister, Rajiv Gandhi, and the US President, Bill Clinton, among others. Rantham bhore is much frequented by Indian and foreign tourists. Since the visitor-rush is multifold, tourist management has become very vital.

Ranthambhore is about 12 km from Sawai Madhopur, which is the district headquarters. The park sprawls across contiguous dry-deciduous forests where the Vindhya and Aravalli hills meet. This is one of the last few habitats capable of supporting a viable population of Panthera Tigris, the Royal Bengal Tiger.

The warm weather, sparse rainfall and thin forest canopy, and the light conditions make for excellent photography opportunities. With hills on all sides of the sanctuary, rainwater is more or less contained within the park in three large lakes and numerous small pools. Check-dams have been made at strategic locations for allowing water to percolate and get collected. Within this enclosed eco-system, there are several dry and wet areas with their own peculiar flora and fauna.

The water lily and lotus-covered lake, Padama Talao, and the swampy lake-bed lit up during dawn and dusk with the 10-storey tall Ranthambhore Fort as the backdrop are worth viewing. Vistas from the fort provide a panoramic view of the three lar ge lakes abutting each other and the Jogi Mahal located at its foot.

The lakes are known for their rich aquatic flora and fauna. The lakes and the green pastures surrounding them attract animals such as chital (spotted deer), Sambhar, Neelgai (blue bull antelope) and wild boars in large numbers. One can also see the tiger s and leopards stalking their prey hiding in the tall grass and the crocodiles in the lake stealthily floating like dead-logs seeking their pound of flesh. Large water birds such as the painted storks, white-necked storks, white ibis, purple and grey her ons, spoonbills and so on are often seen scouring the waters for their juicy meal.

The muted language of the forest is strange, yet fascinating to imbibe and it is interesting to see the wild creatures go about their daily chores. Loads of patience and perseverance can help capture the sound of silence, the perfume of the wild fl owers or even the footfalls of the big cat on the prowl.

The trip was my third to the park and I finally spotted a large tigress stretching out on a boulder, hardly paying any attention to us.

Fact file

How to get there:

By rail: The nearest railhead is Sawai Madhopur, which is about 11 km from Ranthambhore.

By air: Jaipur, 145 km away, is the nearest airport.

By road: If you are driving from New Delhi, which is about 400 km away, use NH 8 to reach Jaipur and go via Tonk.

What to wear: During summer, cotton clothing is advisable. It is wise to carry water bottles during the jungle journey. For winter, ample woollen clothing is recommended to keep out the cold while travelling in the open vehicle. For all seasons, caps are advisable. The maximum temperature is 48 degree Celsius in June and the minimum is 2 degree Celsius in January.

When to visit: The park is open to visitors from October to June. But the best season is November to April, when animals can be easily spotted. For wildlife photographers, April and May are best-suited. The park is closed from June-October for the forest s to rejuvenate after the monsoons.

Where to stay: There is a wide range of places to stay. The Taj group has a hotel with standard rooms as well as tented accommodation. Rajasthan Tourism also has two hotels and bookings can be made from their various offices in India. Tiger Safari Resort , Hotel Hill View Resort, Hotel Ankur Resort etc., are some of the private hotels.

How to get around: Jeeps or open-top mini trucks are used to explore the park. Reservation for these could be done at the Project Tiger office or the hotels. The tour is accompanied by a guide. One must adhere to the route allocated to the ve hicle at the park entrance. Each route is a three-hour drive, twice a day. The first begins at dawn and the second, ends at dusk.

Entry is relatively expensive, with fees for entrance, the vehicle hired, guide and video camera being charged separately. It is advisable to book your trips to the park and accommodation much in advance, especially during the peak season.

For further information contact: Shamim Khan

Ranthambhore Jungle Safari Tours and Travels

Phone: 07462-20961; Fax: 07462-21212.