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The Caribbean spirit

Inder Raj Ahluwalia

The flight from Miami to San Juan had set the tone. Talk about a buzz in the air, with non-stop chatter that typically meant nothing, lots of hand and head-shaking, and lots, yes, lots of cigarette and cigar smoke hanging in the air like a giant mushroom.

Old San Juan sports true Latin flavour. Shift Spain into a tropical setting, put in plenty of friendly souls, loud music and rum-swigging parlours, and what you get is the `spirit of the south'. That's San Juan for you. Originally conceiv ed as a military stronghold, this 475-year-old neighbourhood today welcomes thousands of cruise tourists each day to shop, dine, drink and laze around before boarding ship.

With the streets paved with cobbles of adoquine and the buildings a happy jumble of old colonial styles nudging modern ones, a leisurely foot-tour is the best way of seeing the town and its environs. Or, take a ferry harbour cruise, passin g local landmarks such as El Morro Fortress, Casa Blanca, the City Hall, San Juan Gate, La Forteleza and the Advana Federal.

Fascinating art galleries, shops and cafes grace the historic district where one can admire massive 16th-century forts, towers, Gothic cathedrals, lively casinos, concert halls and acclaimed restaurants, all at the same time. There are modern floo r shows, designer boutiques and the `must see' restaurants of the Mesonas Gastronomicos programme, a Puerto Rico tourism venture that recognises high quality in restaurants. The local project features a LeLoLai cultural festival nights a t various hotels, with an evening's folklore ensemble and a buffet of local delicacies.

If inclined towards shopping, start anywhere, but serious shoppers should try Calle del Cristo for disco jewellery, gold, and traditional crafts like carved santos (small wooden figures of saints or religious scenes).

We sailed at sunset. Ahead, the Caribbean was a pale gray, gradually turning black, while behind us the lights of San Juan twinkled like little stars in the galaxy. Our cruise would cover proverbial exotic destinations, we were told, `gems of t he South Caribbean'.

Daybreak brought the first bonanza. Excitement ran high as we weaved our way past several ships to dock and disembark into a world of green foliage and laughter. Relatively speaking, things were a bit crowded this morning, with almost a doz en ships bringing thousands of tourists and their cameras from the world over to the island.

Forty beautiful beaches, world-class dining and exciting nightlife and some of the most spectacular views in the Caribbean make St. Thomas my pick of the world's cruise stopovers. Though National Geographic has rated the local Magens Bay a mong the world's 10 most-beautiful beaches, the entire island with its lush green foliage, colourful flowers and picturesque harbour is natural-beauty-personified.

With its quaint shopping arcades and little waterfront restaurants, downtown Charlotte Amalie has enough going on to entertain for days. The shops offer some of the best deals in the Caribbean for leather goods, jewellery and cameras.

While downtown, climb the 99 steps for a spectacular view of Charlotte Amalie Harbour. We had a glimpse of the island's history in the museum at Fort Christian before visiting the synagogue and taking a shaky drive up to `Mounta in Top', birthplace of the world-famous banana daiquiri.

Another morning, another delight. St. Martin is a dual-nationality -- Franco-Dutch -- owned as it is by The Netherlands and France. While the Dutch side has casinos animating the nightlife, the French part offers great cuisine and trend y hotels with more discreet entertainment. But there are `going ons' everywhere and so are the tourists. Philipsburg, the Capital, is small but very stylish and welcoming with its fine shopping and bistros.

Relax, unwind, let yourself go and forget big-city stress. Nature has worked wonders on such a small territory, with some 38 white sand beaches, coral reefs, small `pearl-like' islands and the very distinct multi-toned grape vines that are a local feature, creating a picture-book scenario.

Over 500 years ago, Colombus discovered St. Croix and called it a `lush garden'. The visitor today finds clinching evidence to support this claim through crystal-blue waters, sugar-sand shores and rolling green hillsides.

From famed dining in chic restaurants to late-night snacks at waterfront cafes, from the calm waters surrounding Buck Island Reef to emerald-green golf courses overlooking the Caribbean, it is all yours for the asking. Explore the island's turquoise waters by sailboat, or go sword-fishing. Bike past historic great houses and stop for a refreshing drink at a beachside joint.

The island's two waterfront towns, Christiansted and Frederiksted, have distinct 18th-century Danish architecture and offer the most sumptuous seafood imaginable. Christiansted's `Jump Up' and Frederiksted's `Harbour Night' held at various times yearly, invite visitors to shop while local bands belt out their stuff and party-goers frolic in the streets alongside Mocko Jumbie stilt dancers as they `dance away the evil spirits'.

Fact file Getting there:

By air: San Juan is best accessed from Miami, with several daily flights.

Accomodation: While most visitors come for cruising, there are several hotels in all categories with room tariffs ranging from $ 40-100. Several cruise companies operate from here.

Places to see: St. Thomas, St. Martin, and St. Croix are all within or slightly more than a night's sailing from San Juan. They all have a complete infrastructure of hotels, restaurants, and shops.

Best time: Though these are year-round destinations, the best time to visit is from September through April.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter the US.