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Where sky is the limit

Inder Raj Ahluwalia

Mystical and romantic, the islands of Japan have lured travellers for centuries.

Japan was the Xanadu that had charmed Marco Polo with its `palaces of gold'. A similar sort of passion spurred Columbus, but as is well known, something else got in his way.

But Marco Polo was quite right in his belief. His `golden palace' actually existed, one of the many cultural threads that make up the enigma that is Japan, with its festivals, natural wonders, economy and the fascinating Japanese themselves.

The enigma remains. The charm remains. And nothing mirrors it better than Tokyo. The city can be staggering for the first-timer. This is centre-stage Japan without doubt... politically, culturally and commercially.

Within a 48-km radius of the Imperial Palace live some 30 million people -- the same as in California. Converging from all parts of the country are the ambitious and the brave, and the dreamers. This is Japan's `Big Apple', the final destination for over -achievers in a land where over-achieving is a mania. What all this has created is a city like no other, its throbbing commercial activity and lifestyle quite unmatched globally.

Tokyo was a fishing hamlet until Leyesu Tokugawa, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, moved here with his retainers and their families to establish the new centre of Japan in 1590. Then called Edo, the city developed fast and hasn't stopped growing yet. L ittle, however, remains from the days of the Shoguns.

Over the centuries, fire and earthquakes have taken their toll. Twice in the 20th century, Tokyo has been nearly destroyed; first by the 1923 `Great Tokyo Earthquake' and then by a blazing fire during the 1945 raids. What one sees today has been built ou t of the ashes.

Here you can ride the world's fastest lift up 70 floors, travel in the world's second-fastest trains, attend a traditional Japanese tea-ceremony, watch Sumo wrestling or a Kabuki performance, or gamble at astronomically high stakes. There is hype and hoo pla, glitz and glitter, opulence and class.

First impressions... Everything looks like a grey blob of concrete, glass, steel, flimsy wood and loud hoardings. But there is plenty of grace amidst the glass and concrete. Look for the little things. Like a finely-pruned pine tree gracefully draped ove r a stone wall, a Sumo wrestler in a kimono and topknot at a phone booth, a narrow path lined by bobbing paper lanterns.

Tokyo virtually reaches for the skies, growing daily, throbbing with vitality, a huge metropolis that dominates much of the world's commercial activity and leaves its stamp on almost all aspects of life. And its history goes back several centuries.

Ancient buildings and historic sites seem to have been crowded out by modern structures. But disappointment quickly gives way to fascination as one explores a city that reflects everything an ancient race of people stand for.

At the very heart of Japanese traditions is the Imperial Palace, the official residence of the Emperor, an interesting complex of gateways and guard towers and popular spots like the Plaza, East Garden and Nijubashi Bridge. The huge open space of the Pla za is a favourite lunchtime rendezvous for office-goers of the Marunouchi business district. The palace is open to the public on the Emperor's birthday. So is the Meiji shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Thousands of daily visitors str eam silently in, passing under a gateway formed by 1,700-year-old cypress trees. It's hard to believe that just across the street lies the hustle of fashionable Harajuku.

Harajuku, Shibuya...this is fashionable downtown Tokyo at its very best. A wide boulevard fringed by restaurants, coffee shops and boutiques, this is designer-label territory. Life moves fast here, even on Sundays, when hundreds of teenagers dressed in 1 950s' styles jam the streets, dancing as if there was no tomorrow.

Shibuya takes off from where Harajuku ends. Here one finds unlimited shopping and entertainment in the shadow of the huge Olympic stadium and the Meiji shrine. For some real action, head for Koen-Dorji street.

To get an idea of just how big the city really is, climb up to the superb viewing centre of the Tokyo Tower. From here the view of the surrounding region is as good as it gets. If seeking traditionalism, visit the Ueno area, which has remnants of Old Tok yo. Everywhere, one can see age-old Japanese graciousness... In the people, their costumes, their mannerisms and their unhurried lifestyle, in sharp contrast to the `other' Tokyo. You could visit Ueno Zoo, or stroll past the station and mingle with the c rowds in this lively district.

There is the rest of Tokyo and there is The Ginza. Contrary to popular perception, The Ginza is not a street but a whole district. Distinguished by day as the city's and country's main centre of high fashion and luxury goods with the greatest concentrati on of art galleries and by night for perhaps the most expensive night-life in the world. The Ginza is the most upmarket part of an upmarket city. There are famous stores, side-streets fringed by specialty shops, restaurants, cafes, bars and nightclubs. F or the city's rich, The Ginza is simply `it'. Class-consciousness is discreet in Japan, but tycoons and aristocrats are still on the scene and The Ginza is where one finds them.

Early evening resembles a sort of fashion parade as beautifully dressed hostesses make their way daintily to work, many in kimonos. Dusk is Tokyo's best hour. The famous neon signs flash their commercial messages, millions of office-goers pour out of bui ldings, into the streets, and into thousands of bars.

Tokyo bars and night-life come in many forms. The Ginza variety includes big-name nightclubs, besides `nomiya' -- the Japanese-style drinking houses where junior staff gather for drinks and snacks -- and hostess bars, the modern-day version of the geisha houses of old.

For a close look at Japanese heritage, visit the Tokyo National Museum of Modern Art which houses national art through the last two centuries. Electronic buffs will enjoy the Sony Building, a landmark and favourite rendezvous point, which serves as a sho wroom for the company's products.

Among the interests of the Japanese, none is as prominent as gardening. At the Rikygien Garden one sees traditional Japanese landscapes of plants, ferns, stone and water. The Hibiya Park is a famous nature study centre and a paradise for birds and butter flies. The Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is among the largest in Japan and has an abundance of chrysanthemums and cherry blossoms.

Don't let the rumour-mills put you off eating in the city. There is more to Japanese food than tempuras and sukiyaki, or for that matter, shushi. The essence of Japanese cooking is enhancement of the natural taste of food rather than camouflaging it. The staple ingredient is rice, or gohan, usually boiled till sticky. Meats are normally chopped into bite-sized pieces, rarely overcooked, and often served raw. Numerous vegetables ranging from carrots, peas and cucumbers to wild mountain roots and grasses, served either fresh, boiled, pickled, or deep fried. A bowl of soup accompanies all meals.

There are eateries of all shapes, sizes and character, from upscale names to little kiosks the size of closets. One can sit at exclusive eateries with subdued decor and music, impeccable service and sobering rates, but there are also more modest establis hments where one can enjoy quality cuisine at affordable rates, at least by Tokyo standards.

Quite typically, the city is safe to walk around in. You will always stumble upon a `koban', as the police boxes are known, and an obliging `omawari-san' will help out.

Tokyo is still growing. The ambitious are still pouring in. Trade and commerce is still increasing. Yet, alongside bustling thoroughfares lie quiet neighbourhoods where traditional Japanese life continues to ebb and flow.

Fact file

How to get there:

By air: Narita international airport is connected with the entire world, and has direct flights to India. The airport is a considerable distance from the city centre, but limousines (coaches), train and taxis are at hand. The airport has tourist informat ion, hotel-booking and car-rental counters.

Where to stay: Accommodation comes in a wide range, from deluxe hotels down to budget establishments and `ryokans' (Japanese inns).

Language: The city is perfectly safe for tourists. Though Japanese is the widely-spoken language, people help out in English if one requires assistance.

How to get around: The tourism department operates several local sight-seeing tours and excursions to places of interest.

Tips: Indian nationals require a visa to enter Japan.

For goodness' sake

The Japanese are a very sensitive people -- fastidious about etiquette and proper forms of behaviour.

Here are a few do's and don'ts while you are in Japan:

* Avoid excessive physical and eye contact -- forget the back-slapping, prodding, and pointing directly at someone with your finger (use your hand to point, if you must).

* Do not chew gum when working or in other formal situations.

* It is polite to put `-san' after another's name, or `-chan' after a young girl's name, or `-kun' after a boy's name, but never use these after your own.

* Avoid shouting loudly at someone to get their attention -- wave or go up to them.

* The Japanese gesture of ``Who, me?'' is pointing at their nose, not their chest.

* The Japanese gesture for ``Come here'' is to put your hand palm out, fingers up, and raise and lower your fingers a few times. The western gesture of palm-up, closing your hand is only used to call animals to you.

* Don't wear your slippers into a tatami (straw) mat room.

* Don't wear your slippers into the genkan (at the entrance to a home, where the shoes are kept), nor outside.

* White-collar Japanese typically leave the office only after their superiors do. Do not expect someone to be instantly free once the official business hours are over.

* It's polite to initially refuse someone's offer of help. Japanese may also initially refuse your offer even if they really want it. Traditionally an offer is made three times.

* It's polite to bring some snacks or drinks when you visit someone.

* Gift giving is very important in Japan, but extravagant gifts require an equally or slightly higher extravagant gift in return. Avoid giving pricey gifts.

* It's polite to belittle the value of your gift or food when you offer it, even if it's blatantly untrue.

* It's polite to see a guest to the door (or the front of a building even) when they leave.

* Japanese often compliment each other to promote goodwill, but it is polite to deny how well you speak Japanese, how nice you look, etc.

* In Japan the whole family uses the same bath water -- as a guest you will probably be given the privilege of using the bath water first. Do NOT drain the water out after you have finished your bath!

An extract from www.jandodd.com