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Straddling the cobra river

Damayanthi Santwan

I had joined a group of about 25 nature lovers belonging to the Madras Naturalists' Society for a special treat in the wild.

Arriving in Mysore from Chennai, we boarded a bus and set out, full of pleasant anticipation, for the cool forests of Nagerhole National Park. We reached our destination in the late afternoon -- about 247 sq km of mixed deciduous forests spread ac ross the northern side of River Kabini in Karnataka, alongside River Nagerhole (cobra river). There it was, the tourist home we had booked, surrounded on all sides by jungle. Could anything be more exciting? Yes, half-an-hour later, as we were driving along the jungle road in a bus, the keen eyes of our driver picked out something interesting in front of him.

Crowding around a minute or two later, we saw there in the dust -- pug marks! Large ones and small ones -- and fresh! A mother and a cub, either leopard or tiger, had only just passed by. These cats have a way of melting into their surroundings so that not even expert eyes can spot them, let alone the inexpert group which peered and strained in vain. A little disappointed but still full of hope, we drove on, relaxing all the while, the peace, quiet and fresh air clearing our bodies and minds of urban noise and pollution. Daylight was fading as we approached `home' and, looking up, we saw a most gorgeous sunset, the darkening trees silhouetted against a rich orange-red sky.

The memory of those pug marks, however, had not faded and early next morning, the distance from home being less than half a kilometre, we succumbed to temptation and decided to take another look at them. We had not reckoned with Nagerhole's cons cientious forest guards who reminded us in no uncertain terms that walking in the woods was against the rules.

Retracing my footsteps homewards, I passed a plant with unusually dark-coloured leaves. As I approached, the ``leaves'' took off and started to fly around my head like a little cloud. Butterflies -- dozens of them, pretty little spotted c reatures! Soon finding me harmless, they settled down, turning into ``leaves'' again and sipping nectar from the bunches of flowers growing on the plant. Nature's wonders will never cease -- this time the wonder of camouflage!

Bus rides into the jungle, morning and evening, had been arranged. There was plenty to see. Right after the monsoon, the forest is at its best, wearing several shades of green dotted here and there with flame trees in full bloom. There were any number of pools surrounded by clumps of bamboo, their graceful fronds waving in the breeze. A family of sambar deer, enjoying a dip in the water, was startled by our approach and rushed off with a great splash into the trees beyond.

Further away, we had a fleeting glimpse of an animal with reddish-brown back, white belly and short tail dashing for cover. It was probably a barking deer which, though shy, acts as sentinel, warning the junglefolk of predators with its ` bark'. In another pool, a family of elephants was taking a bath and having a great time. Herds of wild gaur, powerful and majestic, could be seen in forest clearings and panicky wild pigs fled with their tails held upright -- a comic sight! A few i nquisitive monkeys came by to take a peek at us, their close relatives.

Fortunately, the most beautiful creatures in the jungle -- the chital and the peacock -- are not shy of humans and easy to see. At almost every bend of the road were herds of chital with their beautiful spotted coats and graceful -- whether standing , walking or running. There was a touch of sadness at the sight of a young wounded member of the herd limping behind the others, its days hours numbered under the eyes of watching predators. Reason told us this was the law of nature, tough but n ecessary. Yet the sadness remained.

The most beautiful of all inhabitants of the forest, the peacock -- whether dancing with tail outspread or flying through the air -- always takes one's breath away. There is a world of difference between viewing birds and animals in their natural sur roundings and in captivity. The former evokes wonder at the marvels of nature and the latter, little more than pity. Smaller birds are not easy to see but their songs can always be heard especially at sunrise and sunset. This delightful treat was ours thanks to our home in the middle of the jungle.

All good things come to an end and, as we climbed into the bus to begin our long journey home, there was a final treat awaiting us. The sun was just rising and with it the mist that hung heavily around the trees during the night. The slanting sunrays pierced through the thinning mist, striking the trees and catching their dew-drenched branches, making them shimmer like crystal. Such lush forests once covered vast stretches of South India. Only a few precious patches remain.

Fact file

How to get there:

Rail - Mysore (80 km) is well-connected by rail to several Indian cities.

Air - Bangalore (220 km) has air links to all important cities.

When to go: October-March would be ideal.

Where to stay: The Kabini River Lodge has good accommodation facilities. Both Mysore and Bangalore have hotels that fit all budgets.

Getting around: The forest is home to antelope, panther, warblers hornbills, spotted deer, mouse deer, pangolin, gaur and giant flying squirrel among others. You can take in the sights on an elephant safari or travel by jeeps or vans.

Pic.: A deer herd wends its way across the forests.