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Of yaks and yonder hills

Neeta Gupta

Bordered by Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal and West Bengal, Sikkim is a perfect destination for both kinds of travellers -- those in search of tranquility and those looking for adventure.

The rugged terrain has elevations varying from 284 metres to over 854O metres, giving it a unique biodiversity in terms of flora and fauna. Besides which the myths and mysteries of the land literally hold you in their magical spell!

The guardian deity Kanchenjunga, which presides over this State, both mystifies and terrifies its inhabitants -- - shrouded as it is in mist and mystery. The people here believe that God created the original man and woman from beneath the slopes of this sacred mountain, from whom all Sikkimese have descended.

The three distinct ethnic groups of the Lepchas, Tibetans and Nepalese each add their own unique cultural flavour to the region. Although the Lepchas are the original inhabitants of Sikkim, their numbers have dwindled over the years. The Nepalese form th e largest chunk of about three quarters of the population, followed by Bihari Muslims and the Bhutias or Tibetans, as they are called here. They all have a different name for their homeland, for the Nepalese it is `Sukhom', the new home, for the Tibetans it is `Denzong', the Valley of Rice, and to the Lepchas, it is simply `Nye-Mal-Ale' or Heaven.

Sikkim is divided into four districts. The eastern- district, where the capital Gangtok is situated, is the most populated. The inhospitable climate and hostile terrain in the northern region restricts the permanent population there to yak herds and noma dic tribes.

Gangtok, situated at a height of 1870 metres, is Sikkim's fairy-tale capital. Balanced on a steep mountain slope, surrounded by lush rice fields, flowing rivers and breathtaking snow-views, Gangtok is the political and economic centre of Sikkim. There is something to be said for the fact that ever since it joined India in 1975 as the 22nd state, the population of Sikkim has risen from a mere 15,000 to over 50,000. About a stone's throw from downtown Gangtok is the internationally acclaimed `Institute of Tibetology', an organisation dedicated to the furtherance of Tibetan studies. It has a rare collection of Tibetan books, tankhas and manuscripts. It attracts scholars and academics from all over the world.

The Government Institute of Cottage Industries, just outside Gangtok, produces handmade Tibetan carpets in natural dies, Sikkimese style tables called Choktse and rice paper. It also teaches the local children their native arts and crafts.

On Sundays, the Lal Bazaar at Gangtok, is blaring with Hindi film music, as locals from neighbouring villages gather to barter their wares in the traditional way.

The Rumtek Monastery and Dhanna Chakra Centre Complex, about 24 km from Gangtok, is the seat of the Kagyu order, or the `Black hat' sect, of Tibetan Buddhists. The Karma Kagyu lineage was founded by the 1st Gyalwa Karmapa, Dusum Kyenpa, in the 12th centu ry A.D. Marpa, the great translator, is credited with bringing the Kagyu Dharma to Tibet and the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa spread the Karma Kagyu Dharma to the world, The monastery was in the news in the recent past because the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa Ugyen Trinle y Dorje crossed over to India from his monastery at Tsurphu, in Tibet.

The Tsongmo Lake, situated at an altitude of 3780 metres, is a 40 km drive from Gangtok. In the local Bhutia language its name signifies, `The Source of the Lake' and is considered sacred by the local people. Its placid waters remain frozen in the winter months until mid-May. Between May and August is the ideal time to visit this place as the flowers are in full bloom, including several types of Rhododendrons, blue and yellow poppies, primulas and irises. It is also a natural habitat to the Red Panda an d various species of birds.

The historical town of Yuksom, to the west of Gangtok is where the first King of Sikkim was crowned in 1642 A.D. The more adventurous may proceed further onto Dzongri and Gochi La, which is a rewarding, though strenuous trek.

You could start from Mangan, which is the main administration centre and market for North Sikkim, and can take a series of treks, along the rivers Teesta and Tolung, in the shadow of the Kanchenjunga and Mt. Siniolchu (considered one of the most beautif ul peaks in the world).

An ideal trek could include any or all of the destinations enumerated below:

Kabi Longchuk: This historical place, about 17 km to the north of Gangtok, witnessed the treaty of Blood Brotherhood between the Lepcha Chief To-kung-tek and the Bhutia Chief Khey Bhum Sar. The spot where the treaty was ritualistically signed is marked b y a memorial stone pillar amidst dense forests.

Phensong Monastery: This monastery, set on the gentle slope stretching from Kabi to Phodong, has one of the best landscapes of the region. The monastery comes under the Nyingmapa Buddhist order and was built in 1721. The annual Chham festival is performe d here with great aplomb, on the 28th and 29th days of the tenth month of the Tibetan lunar calendar.

Phodong Monastery: Located about 38 km to the north of Gangtok, this is one of the six major monasteries of Sikkim. About 3 km from here is the recently renovated Labrang Monastery.

Singhik: This place offers one of the most spectacular views of the Kanchenjunga and its ranges. There are also a number of short extremely absorbing nature walks along the higher ranges of the surrounding hills. A well-located tourist lodge offers visit ors a chance to stay overnight if they wish.

Chungthang: This place marks the confluence of the rivers Lachen and Lachung Chu and the starting point of the river Teesta. The area is predominantly a Lepcha region. The valley is believed to have been blessed by the Guru Rimpoche and one can visit the Holy Guru Lhedo to see the foot and palm imprints left behind by the patron saint. The area is rich in biodiversity. There are a large variety of plants, including orchids, here. It is about 95 km to the north of Gangtok.

Lachung: It is a predominantly Bhutia village with a unique local self-governing body called the Zumsa, which substitutes for the panchayat. Lachung has gained in popularity as a tourist destination over the last few years, as it is the gateway to the hu gely popular Yumthang Valley just 25 km away. There is also the well-known Lachung Monastery here, where religious functions are performed with the utmost sobriety.

Yumthang: Set at an elevation of 11,800 ft and about 140 km from Gangtok, Yumthang is a paradise for nature lovers. The Shingbha Rhododendron Sanctuary, with over 24 varieties of rhododendrons, is situated here. The hot water springs of nearby ``Tsa-Chu' ', to the left bank of the river Lachung-Chu, is popular for its curative properties. For those who don't have the time to trek to these beautiful places, Sikkim Mountain Flights offer one a breathtaking opportunity to view the mountains at close range o n five-seater helicopters. The flights commence from Gangtok - along the river Teesta to Chunthang, Lachung, Yumthang and back to Gangtok. Alternately, one could take in a view of the Kanchenjunga Range, on to the Rumtek Monastery and return via the Gang tok Ridge. These flights are expensive but worth every naya paise, if you have the dough to spare!

Fact File:

How to get there:

By air: The nearest airport servicing the Sikkim sector is at Bagdogra (124 km), which is a 4-hour drive from Gangtok. Sikkim tourism authorities also operate a limited helicopter service to and from Bagdogra.

A number of flights from Delhi, Calcutta and Guwahati land at Bagdogra. Taxis and luxury bus transfers are available for Gangtok, via Darjeeling (94 km), from here. The Sikkim Nationalised Transport (SNT) buses are available to the trekking base camps an d other tourist destinations in and around Gangtok. Indian Airlines also has a booking office in downtown Gangtok.

By Rail: The closest railheads are at Siliguri (114 km) and New Jalpaiguri (125 km). Regular connections are available from here to Calcutta, Delhi, Lucknow, Guwahati and other important cities in North India. Adequate local transport connects these stat ions to Gangtok. Rail Booking facilities are available in Gangtok.

By Road: Gangtok is connected to all major cities in North India via Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Siliguri and New Jalpaiguri. It is also well-connected to all the district headquarters within Sikkim. SNT plies regular buses to major towns in North Bengal and also within the State. Booking facilities are available in Gangtok and Siliguri.

Where to stay:

All categories of hotels are available in Gangtok. Tariff lists, which are subject to seasonal changes, may be obtained from Sikkim Tourism offices in Delhi, Calcutta or Gangtok.

Important: Foreigners still require trekking permits, which are issued to groups of not less than four persons, provided they are sponsored by a recognised travel agency. Protected area permits are issued by the Tourism Secretary or the Home Secretary, G overnment of Sikkim, Gangtok.

For further details contact: Sikkim Tourist Information Centre, Gangtok, Sikkim. Ph. 22064 or Sikkim Tourist Information Centre, New Sikkim House, 14, Panchsheel Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021. Ph. 3015346.

Pic.: The Changu lake in Gangtok.