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For a taste of the Mughal era

Ratna Bhusan

If you happen to be heading towards Pehli Manzil (the latest eatery in South Delhi) on a Saturday evening, be prepared for a long haul. The restaurant's location (at a rather crowded bylane in Adhchini) ensures that you park a good distance away and walk for at least 10 minutes. A blessing in disguise actually, for it works up an appetite which gets fired up the moment you step into the quaint restaurant.

The effort to create a Mughal ambience is distinct. The copper and marble menu cards, the framed works of art and the arched wall architecture, complemented by the live rendering of ghazals. What also catches the eye is the all-glass panelled cook ing area -- stark, hygienic and appetising. Other aspects of the decor -- the chairs, cutlery, flooring -- are all functional, neat and sans frills.

We decide to take the manager's (who in this case happens to be the owner as well) recommendations. Tall, chilled glasses of Jeera Pani and Adrak ka Meetha Pani arrive at our table. We had asked for something different. We got it. Adrak ka Mee tha Pani (or fizz of ginger on broken ice) leaves a novel and tangy effect on the tastebuds. The Jeera Pani is just good old jaljeera.

The main course arrives. Chunks of seer fish in ajwaini flavoured spiced marinade, or Ajwaini Machhi, as the menu calls it, comprise the piece de resistance of the evening. At Rs. 163, it's a complete mouthful for two. We wash it down with our cool beverages and attack the Murg Hathora (Rs. 175). Don't let the name mislead you. There's a little story behind the rather intriguing dish. ``The aroma hits you like a hammer when you open the vessel,'' owner Pramod Chaudhury volun teers. It doesn't exactly hit us like a hammer. What it does is blend delightfully with the Dal Anjeer. At Rs. 109, the black lentils dish simmered overnight on slow fire is, incidentally, mentioned as a `must' on the menu card. For chicken lovers, Pehli Manzil offers a huge spread to choose from.

When it comes to desserts, however, the choice is limited. Pehli Manzil offers only three varieties of dishes to indulge the sweet tooth. Between Phirni, Shahi Tukra and Pista Badaam Kulfi, we settle for Shahi Tukra. On a full stomach, that's a bad decision. Shahi Tukra is a sinfully rich base of bread dipped in thick, sweetened syrup and topped with dry fruits.

We can't eat another morsel. As we sit back and take in the ambience, we suddenly realise that the place is milling with people. Literally. Not bad at all for what is only the second night of Pehli Manzil in Delhi. Word obviously gets arou nd fast.

As we prepare to take leave, two thoughts cross my mind. Pehli Manzil could do with some improvement. The lighting could be dimmer (as in easier on the eye) and the music could be just a little more muted. That would go down well with what is otherwise a well-rounded evening.