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Currying favour

Shona Adhikari

Boasting of sheer diversity, Indian cuisine has been shaped by several influences ranging from geographical differences and climatic conditions to foreign settlers from far and near.

Although Calcutta was the capital of British India for many years, it is interesting to note that Indo-Anglican cuisine did not originate there. This amalgamation occurred in the southern part of the country; the `curry and rice' formula that c aptivated British tastebuds is based on the use of `curry powder' -- a mixture of spices popular in the South.

It was while the British were based in Madras and other southern cities that they were exposed to curried meats cooked in mild spices. These dishes were a cross between British stews and the highly spiced southern gravies, and came to be referre d to as `curry' -- a name derived from the Tamil word `kari' or sauce. The `curry' wave spread wherever the Briton went with his South Indian `khansama'.

When the British returned home to England, they took their `curry powder' with them. Appreciating the use of lentils, the British also adapted `dals' to create one of the most tasty international soups -- the `Muligatawny' . Another dish that was popu lar with the British was `mince-ball curry' -- roundels of meat cooked in a curry-powder flavoured gravy and eaten with boiled rice.

Till the British were in India, and for several years thereafter, meals served on the pantry cars of Railways were representative of the British choice of cuisine. Old-timers who have travelled on the BNR Railway are known to wax nostalgic about the `chicken curry and rice' and `roast chicken' served on these trains. The food was prepared in restaurants at important railway stations along the way.

The British, in their turn, introduced bread in the country which gained popularity and was even adapted to Indian cooking in various ways. In Mumbai, the `pao bhaji' is inseparable from its `pao roti'. Even in the erstwhile State of Awadh, a d electable Indian dessert has bread as its base; this is the royal `Shahi Tukra' -- a slice of bread soaked in honey and garnished with cream and pistachio slivers.

The only noteworthy recipe of British origin in eastern India is the `smoked hilsa' -- a delicious method of cooking Bengal's most famous fish in which the bones seemingly disappear. Legend has it that a society lady of Calcutta was intimidated by the b ones that seemed to be everywhere inside the fish and so devised this particular method of cooking it.

Calcutta is also where the `kathi kebab' originated. The British, who found eating `kebab and paratha' a messy business, decided to wrap the bread around the kebab so that it became a sort of pancake that could be eaten using a knife and fork. T he first kathis were created by the famous eatery in Calcutta, Nizams. Located next to a number of hotels, clubs and a cinema hall, Nizams created a simple take-away meal which could be eaten without dirtying one's fingers.

Meals in India were traditionally eaten on banana leaves. The affluent classes used brass thalis while the maharajas ate on plates of gold and silver. The advent of the British brought about the use of dining tables and chairs, tablecl oths and napkins, cutlery, china and other trappings that have now become commonplace in Indian homes.

However, the Indian conquest of British tastebuds extends to snacks as well. Samosas, pickles and papadams can be bought off the shelf at any supermarket in Britain. Indian cuisine of all kinds comes neatly packaged -- fresh or frozen, accordin g to your preference. Today, there are more authentic Indian restaurants in London than in many an Indian city. The Indianisation of the British palate may now be considered complete ever since `curry and rice' was voted Britain's national dish, dislodging the old favourite -- `fish and chips'.

Fact file

You can sample Indo-British cuisine at the following restaurants in India:

* The Curzon Room, Oberoi Maidens, New Delhi (Phone: 011-2914841) -- The hotel and restaurant bring alive the Raj ambience. A meal at The Curzon Room provides a glimpse into the country's colonial past through the food and decor. Open for lunch and dinne r, the menu includes Indian as well as continental cuisine.

* The Raj Pavilion, Windsor Manor Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Bangalore (Phone: 080-2269898) -- This 24-hour restaurant is housed within a glass conservatory, inspired by the Glass House at Lalbagh Gardens. Tall palms, plenty of greenery and cane furniture create a garden atmosphere, while the menu includes dishes from the British colonies in the Far East and India.

Pic.: Mince-ball curry -- a favourite with the British.